C&C 27 Association Forum

chad

Member

compression post

I attached this to an older post about this subject.
There was a lot of views but no replies. I was hoping to communicate with someone that has tackled this repair or knows anything about it.
Please help if you can.

I have a 1975 mark III and my compression post seams to be bulging at the bottom.
I was thinking I would cut off the offending bit, 6” or so, and add in a shoe of white oak or similar water resistant wood. I would fix it to the existing post with epoxy and an aluminum collar.
Dows anyone see a problem with this kind of repair?
What is the post made of?
Can I do this with the mast up?
The rail for the sliding door on the head needs to be removed?
Will I run into something unexpected cutting it off in situ?
Chuck
http://www.cc27association.com/f4/img/m … c-post.jpg

capricous

Member

Re: compression post

following
Capricious Mark 3

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Capricious Mark 3 Hull #599

Superior Blue

Member

Re: compression post

Chad - I see you also posted in another thread about replacing a compression post.  The OP in the thread had a good procedure.

Yes, it would be a good idea to take the mast down to relieve any compression pressure from the mast.  But I don't think it would be necessary to remove the rail for the sliding door. In my 1973 MkII that is a solid wood piece and assuming you take the sliding door off to get it out of the way, it wouldn't be a problem.

Let us know how you do.

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Phil Peterson
Superior Blue
1973 C&C 27 Mk II
Bayfield, WI

capricous

Member

Re: compression post

In looking under the sole,the compression post does not go into the bilge. It sits on a rail that goes across the bilge.
Has a p.o. done something?
The work looks original
Dana

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Capricious Mark 3 Hull #599

chad

Member

Re: compression post

I've taken the boat out of the water with the mast up so I won't be doing anything until the spring.
I will have to put the  boat in the water and take it to the mast crane to do my work.

The post sits on a bracket that attaches to the sole and the post. I aim pretty sure it is original, i've owned the boat since 1995. The plastic cover on the post looks like something that would be original.

How sensitive is the jacking procedure, is a hydraulic pump jack OK or should should I use a screw jack that more accurate to the amount of lift.

Chuck Dyck
Talisman
1975 Mark III

capricous

Member

Re: compression post

I'll have to look at my boat.
will get right back to you
Dana

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Capricious Mark 3 Hull #599

capricous

Member

Re: compression post

There is no metal bracket on mine and I don't believe you're problem is below the sole. My pic shows that there is no part of the support structure,being in water. You will have to cut out the rotted part of the post,and patch in with composite,after jacking up near the top of the post,keeping an eye on the deck.

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Capricious Mark 3 Hull #599

chad

Member

Re: compression post

Thanks Dana
I think I can get away with jacking up just 1/2 an inch, and then patching. Maybe not as intimidating as I originally thought.
Chuck

brianb

Member

Re: compression post

I had to do a fair bit of work on my 78  mk111. the compression post is one piece I believe mine was solid teak.it sits directly on the sole.
the sole under the post is encapsulated balsa wich sinks in many of these boats due to water intrusion. removing the head door and track are very straight forward. the post is held in place from the head side of the bulkhead with 6 screws. if you have a visible issue with the post I would double check the mast step. mine was sunk over an inch. i used 2x4s and a screw jack. all the best in the spring.

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1978 c&c 27 mkiii h#726
port stanley Ontario

chad

Member

Re: compression post

Work is done and it turned out easier than I first thought it would be. Here is what I did.
I loosened my shrouds and backstay as much as I could, checking the mast with a small pry bar to make sure it was not sitting tight.
Took off the door and door track.
Then I set up my jacking contraption using the screw jack from my car. I carefully jacked up the bulkhead just enough to take the pressure off the compression post.
I used my vibrating saw and a Japanese cutoff saw to take about 5 inches off the compression post, into very  healthy wood.
I had a new piece already made by laminating 3 pieces of white oak ready to be inserted. I added and aluminum shim on the bottom just to make the bottom of the post sit a little further away from the sole.
I mixed up some epoxy and wet out the top of the new piece and the  bottom of the post.
Then added thickener to the epoxy and put a healthy amount on the new piece and slid it under the post.
I took some of the pressure off the jack until the epoxy started oozing out of the joint.
Went home and came back the next day and took everything apart and retuned the rigging.
As you can see in the picture I still have to trim the excess epoxy from the joint. There is also picture of what I cut out.