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I think I am going to install a Newmar Thru-Dex DX cable gland to deal with the mast wiring through the deck.
<a href="http://www.newmarpower.com/Antenna_Cable_Accessories/Antenna-Cable_Accessories2.html">http://www.newmarpower.com/Antenna_Cable_Accessories/Antenna-Cable_Accessories2.html</a>
The idea is to feed all the electrical wires and VHF antenna cable through the rubber gland inside the casing to terminate the wires inside the cabin. To dismast, disconnect the wires inside the cabin, unscrew the casing of the gland, and pull the wires and VHF cable connector up through the 1" or greater hole in the deck, with the rubber gland still firmly gripping the wires. The big advantage is not having the connections made outside in the weather.
Has anyone used this cable gland on a C&C27? There is insufficient room in the cabin under the mast step in that little 1" space to connect all the wires and VHF cable, so I would have to build a slightly larger box for that, to hide the connections. Or run the wires down to connect out of the way.
On the weekend, I am going to take a look at a friend's C&C that has been wired with one of these glands, but though I would ask here too.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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I used one of these Aqua-Signal on-deck connectors. The first one lasted about 7 years (in fresh water). Probably would have lasted longer if I'd put a bit of waterproof grease on the connecting pins.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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I've been giving this thought for the past few days and I have to admit that this is one of the projects that I have been putting off for the several years. I have a very aged set of these rubber glands on the boat now and they only let in a tiny amount of water. What I thinkl I am going to replace them with is two hollow 90 degree stainless rail fittings and a short length of white tubing. This is a common setup on a lot of boats down here and have proven effective at keeping a water tight seal for the wiring. It may not be the best solution for someone who is having to pull their mast frequently. The biggest drawback I can see is that it leaves a loop of hose on deck that might catch things.
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
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Mike, when I was acting as a sales rep for Dufour yachts, I found that they had an interesting solution to this issue. All of the Dufour boats had deck-stepped masts, at least up to the 40-ft level, which were the largest boats I ever represented. At any rate, the tabernacles on the Dufours each had a stainless pipe, about 1 inch in diameter, which emerged from the tabernacle in front of the mast. It came up about 4 to 6 inches, curving over in a semi-circle with the open end of the pipe facing down. Mast wiring came out of an opening in the front of the mast and was fed into the pipe, which opened into the interior of the boat. After the wires had been fed through the pipe, you could plug the remaining open portion of the mouth of the pipe with a cloth or some other sort of non-permanent sealing material.
I always thought that this was an elegant and simple solution, and it seems to have worked well for Dufour yachts. I haven't adopted it for Carriden yet, but maybe one of these days . . .
Marcus from Carriden
Mk III, Hull #847
Oakville, Ontario
[An idea with a good pedigree – Sparkman & Stephens used it in the 30's. There was a drawing of this and other examples of the way they approached details in a book on the firm. - Admin]
Last edited by (2009-03-07 03:59:49)
Marcus Opitz,
Formerly from Carriden, Mk III, Hull #847,
now skippering "Everdina," a 1975 Ontario 32
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Marcus, that's brilliant. I googled and found this image:
<a href="http://www.corbin39.com/qanda/mastholddown.jpg">http://www.corbin39.com/qanda/mastholddown.jpg</a>
I'm going to give that serious thought.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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Another elegant idea: Simply install a 1" throughull in the deck, attach a piece of 1" hose, and after running the wires through in spring, stick the hose into a hole in the mast when stepped and seal it for the summer with silicone. <a href="http://www.triton381.com/projects/restoration/maststepping.htm">http://www.triton381.com/projects/restoration/maststepping.htm</a>
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Last edited by (2009-03-07 19:00:53)
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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I like that idea which made me think of an additional one. What if one were to bring a stainless pipe or rubber hose up through the tabernacle directly below the mast. On my MkV the mast sits in a step that perhaps you could bring the tube up into. As you lift the mast into position (crane only) you could hover it above the tube, feed all the wires down and into the cabin then drop the mast down onto the whole works. The tube would and wires would be protected by the mast and there would be no wire loops to trip on.
Any thoughts on this idea?
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
;
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Re: the tube rising within the mast, it's elegant but risky. If while positioning the mast over the tube, you make a little slip, there's a possibility of compromising the seal between the step and the tube, which means a leak into the interior. And you can't fix it without unstepping the mast. There's also a question of where you run this tube to. On the Mks I to IV, the centre of the step is right over the area of the bulkhead and support timber. Cutting any of that material away is not something I'd care to do.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Agreed: sounds like to many things to go wrong with that idea, including feeding the wires while stepping the mast, and compromising the strength of the tabernacle and the deck built to support the mast under the tabernacle. A wise old boater once warned me to think several times before deciding to make a modification not done by the original designers/builders.
The idea of a through-hull at the traditional wire-though-deck position on the C&C 27 is growing on me: it uses the original position intended by the designers for that purpose.
The stainless gooseneck has a venerable tradition but bothers me: creates a great hook for catching stray lines.
I found a company making a stainless steel, low profile box built like a dorade - the Cableport. It has several neat features: nothing to catch lines, stainless cover to keep the weather out, can be stepped on. Haven't found a Canadian source to price it, though. <a href="http://www.steinie.co.za/cableport/">http://www.steinie.co.za/cableport/</a> Australian $139: <a href="http://www.electricboatparts.com.au/">http://www.electricboatparts.com.au/</a>
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Last edited by (2009-03-08 05:58:31)
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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Yeah valid points. I kinda forgot about the structure below the mast step!
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
;
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The boom track on the aft side of the mast extends right to the deck. Is there any reason I cannot remove the lower one foot of that track to gain access to the mast for my new mast wire entry system?
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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Sorry I'm late answering your original question. I've used that cable gland for several years (actually since it first came on the market). I got the 1" hole version (so I can leave the connectors on the cables), and used the same cabintop location as the factory site. All the old mast wiring (steam, masthead, spreader lights) remains the same. Once through the gland, they connect to a junction strip in the cabin top, while the wind instrument cable and the VHF cable just run forward to the mast, down the mast and into the port storage where my depth and speed thru-hulls are, and are junctioned at that point. The rubber gland is still in very good shape and remains water tight and flexible even though I have to disconnect/connect each fall/spring.... (I think it cost me around 30 bucks..)
[em]Gord Richardson</SPAN>
Aurora - C&C 27 MK III</SPAN>
Windsor, Ontario</SPAN>[/em]
Gord Richardson
Aurora - C&C 27 1975 MK III
Windsor, Ontario
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I'm bringing this thread back up as I'm involved in a re-fit and am wondering if anybody used or has any new information about the Australian Cableport product mentioned in Windy Day's posting. Is there a North American importer or source?Scott Schoeler, MKIII, "Scot-Free"
Scott Schoeler, Hull 858, "Scot-Free"
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I never found the CablePort supplier, but the Blue Sea cable clam sure is cheap and effective. Two of us with C&C 27's here are using it. Cost me about $30.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Last edited by (2009-12-23 06:13:47)
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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