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Can anyone help spec a backstay adjuster for MkV? My rigger is recommending an 8:1 system that has a vang type set of blocks pulling down on a wire rope going from starboard side over a block floating between two blocks hanging on each side of the split backstay. I'm wondering if a vang type set of blocks pulling down directly from a set blocks hanging on each side of the split backstay would be sufficient (definitely cheaper). What kind of arraingement do others have?
Don, 1985 MkV
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My 1987 Mk V has a block that attaches to a U bolt in the heavy hull deck join near the stern mooring cleat. It goes up to a ring between two pulleys on the split back stay. Works fine. My friend's C&C 29 Mk 2 has the same setup. Works fine for him too. If you would like some photos, send your email address.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V
[I think you may have missed the purpose of the query, which is to find the power of the adjusting tackle. 8:1 seems high for adjusting a split backstay, a 4:1 tackle composed of fiddle blocks (which is what is assumed from "vang type set of blocks") is probably sufficient. - Admin]
Last edited by (2008-11-11 02:06:07)
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I too have a Mark V. My backstay adjuster is a 4:1, and it works fine.
CRouse, Gemini - Mark V
I believe my backstay adjuster is as your rigger describes. The wire rope cleats via a shackle to the last hole in the toerail at the stern. The wire rope leads through a wire block which is hung from a steel ring which is attached to each branch of the split by rollers. The wire rope ends in an eye to which is attached the vang setup which is connected at the last hole in the toerail on the side opposite to where the wire rope is cleated.copasetic
Yes, that sounds the same. Does it work well for adjusting the forestay tension? easy and effective? Do you ever worry about too much tension using this adjuster system?
Don
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My MarkV has roller furling on the forestay so I really can't detect presence or absence of sag in the jib. I just installed the adjuster this season so I have yet to really figure out its proper settings-so I worry about knowing what i am doing , but not specifically about over tension. The backstay adjuster is easy and simple to use. As I describe, the vang portion with cleat is at the stern starboard corner, so if one is on the port rail , the adjuster is out of reach so one has to do the adjusting when you are in the boat-not on the rail.
The year before, I did not have an adjuster and the boat sailed faster-which i attribute to the fact that the faster year, the mast and shroud tensions were done by a yard whereas this year i was responsible for the settings.copasetic
are you racing or cruising?
Your suggested set up is fine for cruising, or casual rascing.
For serious racing you need to run double-ended controls led forward to cheek blacks and cleats set just aft of the traveller - continual adjustment of the back stay is needed to get oprimal speed.
Jim W
Distant Thunder
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Hi Distant Thunder--thanks for the question. the racing is semi-casual wednesday night vespers/phrf. courses 2-4 miles set for our light evening breezes. We sail with 3 using a 135 jib. We do not play the back stay-except for tighter upwind then slacker down wind, but no adjustments during the leg. In fact, despite years of sailing, I confess to not having a good "feel" for the backstay other than on and off. This is very true for the MarkV which I have just had for 2 seasons and only one with the adjuster.
I think I need to get you down here as a consultant/coach for a day.copasetic
in light air playing the backstay can give quite amazing results- a slight tweek to backstay can give you half a knot.
In heavy air reefing it down hard in the puffs will help you de-power the main.
Distant Thunder
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