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My first season to winterize my engine (1979 Atomic 4)on a C&C 27 markIII. In your opinion what would be the best method.
I would apprieciate any advice.
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1. Get a copy of "Atomic 4 Service Manual" (see our Links page). It really is helpful and it's not expensive. If you want to know _everything_ about A4's, get the Moyer Marine manual.
2. With the boat in the water run the engine until it is thoroughly warm, then change the oil. Look at the oil to be sure there is no water in it. Depending on your club policy, go to the fuel dock and top up or not. Put gas preservative in the gas ('Store & Start' or whatever it's called).
3. With the boat out of the water, disconnect the engine cooling water intake hose from its sea-cock and stick it in a pail of antifreeze (most people use inexpensive antifreeze; Moyer recommends RV antifreeze, which is really low-cost). Run the engine until you see antifreeze coming out the exhaust, then spray engine fogging compound into the carb intake until the engine stalls.
4. Close the fuel valve at the tank and disconnect the batteries (some people charge the batteries and leave them on the boat; a discharged battery, however, will freeze and can crack, spilling its acid contents into the bilge so I take them off the boat).
5. Pull the plugs and put a small squirt of oil in each cylinder, aiming toward the centre of the block (toward the pistons, not the valves), then turn the engine over a couple of times by hand (the fogging compound is supposed to look after this, but I do it anyway). Torque the plugs back in (I get in arguments about this -- some people put new plugs in now but I put the old ones back in and use them for the first start of the season, because they get really carboned from all the oil you've just squirted in and I think it's easier to run the engine once in the spring to burn off the oil then put in new, clean plugs).
5. Drain the carburetor float bowl, spray WD-40 on exposed surfaces, then cover the air intake with an old cloth. Loosen the belts, clean up and go home.
David Weatherston
"Towser", Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
A late PS, on reading the post emphasizing cleaning of the carburetor bowl: Drain the electric fuel pump and replace its filter. I had tremendous problems with these little filters gumming up over the winter. Be very careful, though, that you don't introduce _anything_ when draining the carb and pump. I got a tiny piece of crud in my system that blocked the idle jet. It was impossible for the local carb shop to remove, even with repeated cleanings, so I replaced the carb. Problem solved.
Last edited by (2007-10-30 07:26:47)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Have been winterizing Atomic 4 engines for quite a number of years and find the easiest,foolproof and environment friendly method of draining the engine as per the Atomic 4 manual works well. There are 2 petcocks or pipe plugs/caps on the engine for this purpose. Additionaly, loosen the 4 screws on the pump cover so as any water will drain. Suggest that the impeller also be removed over winter.
While many boaters use anti freeze, one must be sure that the engine is HOT so that the themostat will be open allowing the anti freeze to circulate throughout the entire engine. Just because anti freeze can be seen coming from the exhaust does not always ensure protection. Water lift muffler, if so equipped,must also be drained.
I agree with what has been said before, but I would like to empahsise draining the carburator bowl. This one act wil save you many hours for frustration in the spring launches to come. The modern fuel is very caustic and can block up the passages easily.
The other thing which works well is using marvel mystery oil. I keep a spray bottle of the MMO on board and routinely spray a bit into the carb while running at idle(remove the flame arrestor first) to lube the valves etc....I also use it inplace of fogging oil and have not had any problems with sticky valves. A table spoon of MMO in each cylinder and hand rotate the engine and you should be done.
1975 C&C 27 Mklll 'IRIS'
Kittery Point, Maine
how do you drain the carberator float bowl?
On the bottom of the carb. float bowl, you will find a hexagon headed screw. Simply unscrew this and any fuel will drain. Do not lose the screw gasket.
You should also plug the exhaust outlet on the transom with a rag so as to prevent air/moisture from entering the engine through the open valves.
Bob Honsberger
Burlington
Former owner of "Budge" Mk.2
Old thread but....
I just winterized my Atomic IV for the first time, and only found three drain plugs. I have a vague recollection of putting in four in the spring.
I found:
- One in the bottom of the water pump
- One at the back of the manifold
- One on the block just forward of the alternator
...is there another?
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It is also a good idea to check the fuel filter / fuel-water separator and fuel pump bowl and empty any water that may have drained there from the fuel.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
Greg Tokarz,
Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
National Yacht Club, Toronto
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I'd like to give you some additional input, but these guys covered pretty much everything. Follow their lead and you will do just fine.
Good luck!
Greg Reese
Billerina Hull #33
Sorry for the delay responding, been busy "winterizing". My A4 has one more drain plug at the forward end of the starter. Hard to get to, and yielded no water when finally removed. I think the one in front of the alternator is the lowest point and therefore the most important.
Chris Ferrier
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
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I think you are right, a lot of water came from there on mine as well.
The other place I found a lot of water was in the water pump. It was recommended in this thread and quite a lot of water poured out even after I had drained all of the other plugs.
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I got my 27 two winters ago and the surveyor also suggested that the impeller cover be loosened off for the winter. Next winter I will do after opening the other 3 plugs and see if any water was not drained.
Also, I use the oil pump to get the water out out of the water lift muffler, (over kill but I feel better). I prefer this to antifreeze since you can not get 100% out in the spring without contaminating the lake or yard.
John - Weather or Not, BPYC
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