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Hi - I have a 1976 MK III. I want to replace my old gas tank with a new plastic. It appears that the diameter of the tank is about 1/4" wider than the lazarette from where I'm assuming I need to get it out. Has anybody had to do this? and if so, what is the safest way??
Thanks for any help!
Mark
I haven't had the tank out but I have removed the teak lip that surrounds the lazarette openings (it's screwed on from the underside). Once you've taken that off, you could easily shave 1/8" of fibreglass off either side. After you replace the teak surround, the surgery would be unnoticable.
The tank in a 27 is right beside the engine with no fire-resistant barrier or materials between engine and tank. Before you install a plastic tank, better get approval from your insurance company, or your boat may not meet DOT or USCG regs and therefore may not be insurable. If you have an A4, metal may be your only option (and I'd choose metal even if plastic is permitted for gas in this type of installation - plastic tanks are only expected to last 90 seconds when exposed to direct flame).
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Last edited by (2007-07-28 00:02:39)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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What shape is your tank? If it's the rectangular unit with rounded horizontal edges (which is what I have in my boat), it's slightly shallower than it is wide. If so, the first step, obviously, is to siphon the gas completely (I did this by carefully removing the fuel level sending unit and, after the tank was empty, the fuel fill elbow. Then, with the wooden retainer removed at the aft end, you slide the tank back, rotate it tank 90 degrees horizontally, and stand it on end. You can remove it without having to remove trim or shave FRP. I did mine last summer so that I could have it cleaned and pressure tested.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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Thanks for the info' - metal v's plastic, certainly serious food for thought.
Cheers!
Mark (SV Reinga)
The thought process strikes me as fairly simple -- do you want a place to keep your boat or not? Insurance is a precondition for every club or marina. - Admin
Last edited by (2007-07-28 14:02:04)
Thanks for your reply! My tank is cylindrical in shape and is held in place with metal straps. There is also a cicular cut-out in the forward bulkhead which it slides into.
Cheers!
Mark (SV Reinga)
Isn,t that round tank "Monel"metal? A very durable and expensive type tank. Why do you need to replace it?
Mark</SPAN>
</SPAN>If you're replacing the original metallic fuel tank with a cast polyethylene tank you will also likely need to replace several other system components. </SPAN>Replacing the gas fuel tank and fuel system components it is entirely within the capability of many DIY owners and clearly you feel up to the re-fit. However, as Mr. Weatherson suggests, you should be aware of the proper installation procedures and practices of this critical piece of equipment.</SPAN>
</SPAN>There are several controlling authorities that list requirements for gasoline fuel tank installations. The USCG (United States Coast Guard) CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) 33, subpart J, Sections 183.501 - 183.590 provide legal requirements. </SPAN>The NFPA (National Fire Protection Agency) has also issued detailed requirements for safe installation of gasoline fuel systems. And finally the ABYC (American Boat and Yachting Council) issues Standards and Technical Information Reports for Small Craft</SPAN> which is a consensus of representative of government, industry and public sectors and they are used as a guide to aid the manufacturer, the consumer and the general public in the design, construction, equipage and maintenance of small craft. </SPAN>These standards (ABYC) are internationally recognized as the Best Practices for the marine industry. </SPAN>An entire section (ABYC H-24) is dedicated to the proper installation of gasoline fuel systems, including tanks, fill hoses, fuel lines, connections, vents, etc.</SPAN>
</SPAN>I certainly DON'T want to discourage you from the project by scaring you with a flood of detailed requirements but rather advocate the job be completed the safest method possible. </SPAN>I encourage you to seek the help of a qualified professional who can offer guidance based on the above standards. That way you can provide your insurance company with documentation regarding your re-fit if asked and more importantly, you will have peace of mind that the fuel system is installed correctly and safely.</SPAN>Scott Schoeler, MKIII, "Scot-Free"
Scott Schoeler, Hull 858, "Scot-Free"
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Thanks for your reply. After reading your reponse and that of Scott's, perhaps I will just get the tank prffesionally cleaned - that seems like a lot less hassle!
Thanks!
Mark (Reinga)
The round tank in my 27 is MONEL... there should be no reason to replace it.....if you need to clean it, then we can get on that subject...generally speaking the Monel tanks are resistant to all forms of oxidation and acid problems.
There should be a metal label attached on the topside stating that it is monel and that it has been tested to xxx lbs.
IRIS
1975 C&C 27 MKlll
Hull #453
Kittery Point, Main
Thanks for the reply - Okay, I guess mine must be the same sort of tank as yours, I'll check it out tomorrow. Soooooo, what is the best way to clean out an old tank completely? Your advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Mark (Reinga)
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When cleaning a gas tank the obvious thing to start is to make sure that you can have the boat wide open.....allowing air movement everywhere. When I did mine a few years ago, what I did was remove the fuel gage sending unit... if it is a steel one it will very badly rusted, replace it with an aluminum and stainless unit.. these are available at most marine stores.
Drain the tank using a syphon not a pump.... I had several five gallon fuel containers on the ground and syphoned the fuel to them. A bit slow but safe. I used the old fuel in my lawn mower.
Get a couple of gallons of alcohol from the hardware store. Put it in the tank and with a wooden stick stir it around as best you can. Let it sit for a while, then syphon the alcohol out into a clean fuel can. The trick here is to use a coffee filter in a funnel to capture all the particulates that will be coming out. Put the alcohol back into the tank and repeat the whole procedure several times using a new coffee filter each time, until the filter really does not show any more stuff. If I recall correctly it took four times for my tank.
Once you drain the last of the alcohol, let the tank air a day, then replace the fuel gage sending unit and fill with gas. I would replace all filters and blow out the fuel lines as well.
"IRIS"
1975 C&C 27 MKlll
Hull #453
kittery Point, Maine
Thanks so much for your time in responding to my question, I really appreciate it and will do as you direted.
Cheers!
Mark
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Iris. Is the alcohol you refer to "methyl hydrate"? Thanks
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
Greg Tokarz,
Nepenthe, C&C 27 Mk1, Hull #73
National Yacht Club, Toronto
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The alcohol to use is a gas line antifreeze. I used stove alcohol (methyl hydrate).
A cylindrical tank obviously has a different cross section than a rectangular tank, and has a fuel tank sender that is different than a rectangular tank. However, I couldn't find a supplier of a fuel tank sender for a cylindrical tank. So a standard replacement fuel gauge for a rectangular tank reads OK for empty, half and full, but not in between.
Serendipity
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