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Hi,
I think I am ready to remove, clean and reseal some of the hardware on my deck. The existing caulking (or whatever was previously used) is pretty much worn away and falling off and I also know for a fact that I have a leak in the cabin because of deck hardware that is now letting in water. What is the suggested procedure and caulking material to use for this purpose. I am concerned about the leak itself but I am more concerned about water getting into the balsa core.
David
Mark V
You can pick you favorite sealant, some are strong adhesives others are just sealants...but proceedure is very important...this was how I was instructed how to get a good seal.
Obviously, you must have clean surfaces on both the deck and the hardware. Be sure to tape around the hardware before you remove it so you know where you are working. If you have the time, apply alcohol to the area, it help dry out any moisture in the area. Apply you sealant to both surfaces, let stand a few minutes. Put the hardware in place and bolt it down. Now here is the part where most people make their mistake. Do not bolt it tight, just enough to get the sealant to ooze out all way around the hardware. Let it set up a day or two so that the ooze has become hard to the touch. Trim the ooze away, a sharp blade should do just fine. Now, tighten the bolts the rest of the way. There may be a little more ooze, let it set and then trim again and clean up the tape et al.
"IRIS"
1975 C&C 27 MKlll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
I'll second that description of the fastening process. I use 3M 5200 (though many people prefer the sister product - can't remember the number - that is not an adhesive). Sika also makes an excellent bedding compound that is much less expensive than 3M's line.
If you're worried about water in the balsa, consider a variant of the drill, fill, drill process described here. As you already have a hole in the lower skin, you need to fill it with something. Tape doesn't work (at least, not for me). Plugs whittled from any flexible or resilient foam do the trick.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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I,ve used the drill /fill method with good results but it is tedious.A simple step you can consider if you are resealing in one step is to countersink the holes from above before sealing.This way when the 5200 is being squeezed out a plug of it will remain around the base of each fastener.Hopefully this "collar" will result in a longer life seal .Another spot to worry about on the 27 is the window seal.I am rebuilding a deck on a Mk2 where I initially thought water entered by the chainplates but after "excavation" I am now convinced most of the damage was caused by water entering from the bottom edge of the larger window and working it,s way outboard.
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I've cut huge spots out of my deck, replaced and rebedded countless deck fittings, replaced all thru hulls, but I have never used 5200. I have seen the damage that can come from trying to remove (should you or the next owner need too) something that has been beddded using this product. If anything I would recommend 4200 and leave 5200 for NASA. A WEST system type of epoxy has provided me with excllent results for filling void areas of balsa core, and a 4200 type product for re-bedding.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
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