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Every spring when the boat goes back in the water the stuffing box leaks excessively, and has to be tightened. I would love to get the PSS shaft seal, but I do not know if there is enough room to install it.
Has anybody installed one on a 27 Mk1?
Thanks for your input
Joe
I have a c&c 27 MK1 ; ; I do not have a track for the genny blocks. ; My blocks are attatched to the outside rail.
I have the 1972 ;brochure for the ; boat and it shows the boat sailing with the genny and the block is on a rail on the coaming.
Have any 27 owners have their blocks like this? ; Is this a good arrangement? ;I do not want to put a track on the deck as I do not want to drill holes in the deck.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. ; Thanks
Joe
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I had a PSS shaft seal installed on my MKII but I have a Yanmar 2GM. There is about 3 inches between end of the coupling and the disk on the shaft seal. From a cost perspective you can by a lot of packing for the cost of the install. That said, I would do it again. There are a couple of threads concerning teflon packing which may be a better way to go.
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
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Bruce Peever's Scalliwag (see The Fleet) is a Mk II with a Shaft Seal and an A4. Write to Bruce for more info.
I don't know where you're writing from, but Bruce told me there is a ridiculous difference between the price of a Shaft Seal in the US and one in Canada. It's well worth it to tap a US friend to act as an intermediary.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Re: A Mk III question / I suspect it is the same on all marks - BUT - here it goes. This is my 1st stuffing / packing and it is extremely tight, hard or whatever adjective you want to use that says, I CAN'T GET IT OPEN/OFF/LOOSE!!! So the question to start is, and not a silly one if you could see my lay-out, is, if facing forward and looking on-top of the nut - is it removed, clockwise or counter clock wise? Thanks.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
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Since the stuffing box is threaded just like any other machine screw or bolt, the simplest way to explain this is for you to take a machine screw (or bolt) and put two nuts on it. Hold the screw by its head, imagining that your hand is the stern. First, screw the aftmost nut toward your hand -- this is the retaining nut and you are loosening it. You don't need to move it far, just separate it a bit from the other nut so it no longer locks it.
The forward nut is the compression nut that retains the packing; unscrew it in the same direction as the nut on your demonstration screw. With the retaining nut loose, this should be relatively easy.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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The best reason to change the stuffing box to the new PSS shaft seal type is just to spend money..... yes they are good, but. I did my stuffing box eight seasons ago with the teflon putty type of seal kit in the standard stuffing box and I have not had a single problem.... actually I did my neighbors boat as well with the same kit and the cost obviously was cut in half.
I strongly suggest, that the stuffing box be thoroughly cleaned, especially the threads... if the rubber tube is in good condition leave it alone but change the hose clamps to the stainless T bolt type, expensive but worth it. Lightly lube the threads of the stuffing box with the same teflon grease found in the packing kit, adjust it once on land.... run it in the water feeling for tempurature of the stuffing box, adjust for running cool or luke warm and leave it alone.... 8 seasons without touching it or adjusting it in my book is success.
Most good marine supply houses have the teflon putty type kit...
"IRIS"
C&C 27 MKlll, 1975
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
Hi Guest,
I echo the sentiments expressed by "IRIS" but whenever the subject of stuffing boxes comes up, I offer my experience with EXTREME trepidation lest I immediately jinx myself by mentioning what's happened on Aragorn (1978, Mk 111). I bought her in 1984 and because it was my first boat with an inboard engine, I sought advice from an experienced friend about when and how to tighten the packing nut. His advice was - "Leave it alone" and that, amazingly, is exactly what I have done for these past 21 years. (As I write this, I'm knocking hard on my wooden computer desk).
Some people have the idea that packing glands should not leak-- Not So- They must have some leakage, at a controlled rate, both to cool and to lubricate the shaft/packing surfaces. If you over-tighten in an attempt to entirely stop the leakage, you will create problems.
Clare Jordan
<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
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