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Hi,
My backstay adjuster, a brass system that unfold for screwing in or out, broke today after a windy race. The brass thread is gone.
I am wondering if replacing the brass part is a long term solution as the problem may hapened again (SS into brass will wear off).
I see that more recent boats (and Mark 3 and 4 C&C27) have the backstay split and a block system for adjusting tension. My backstay fits on a single very sturdy plate that bolds on a bulkhead at the back (Mark 2 C&C 27).
Would anyone recommend any good backstay adjustement system that I can use? I am not sure if I can use the corners (attached to the rail).
Stéphane, Mystery, C&C27-2, Sidney BC
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Hi Stephan
Have a look on the C&C photo album website www.cncphotoalbum.com in the Do It Yourself section. The backstay adjuster for the C&C 25 described is similar to the one on my C&C 27. I have a single fiddle block instead of one on each side and I use two wire blocks on a ring on the back stay instead of the stainless fitting shown
RobRob Ladan _/)
Airborne ll MK V #520
Vernon Yacht Club, Vernon BC
Rob Ladan _/)
Airborne ll MK V #520
Vernon Yacht Club, Vernon BC
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Stéphane, do not transfer your load to the toe rail. Should a decision to split your back stay be made, then plates will have to be inserted / bolted / reinforced to your transom. If racing around the cans, yes you could investigate further for a wheel type of adjuster. http://www.mauriprosailing.com/Wichard-Backstay-Adjusters/WIC5526.html If your main goal is cruising, spend the $115.00 and get a new back stay made with a turnbuckle. Then adjust your tension for the wind conditions with your wrench and screwdriver. I keep my wrench connected with a string, and the inexpensive screwdriver(s) rarely meet neptune. Around the cans, our grinder adjusts the turnbuckle typically ten boats lengths before windward mark and after the chute is set on the down wind leg.
>>>>
>>Dean M Baldwin
>Morgan "D"
>>Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
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Hi Rob,
Thanks for the link. So, you attach your SS backtays on either sides on the rings on each corners. The fiddle block is on one side.
The C&C27-2 came with a chainplate for the backstay that looks very sturdy. I guess using both corner rings spread the loads by half on each fixture.
Stéphane
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Hi Stephane,
Critical Path has a single point centre chainplate like yours and our old Dermac wheel adjuster that gave up the ghost a few years ago. We twisted on a conventional turnbuckle and kept sailing while deciding what to do next.
Like Dean suggested, we ran with a wrench and screwdriver combo, but I gotta tell you, that’s even slower and less efficient than the wheel was. Decided I wasn’t going to spend good money on another inefficient adjuster (i.e. wheel or handle) but flipped when I saw the prices of Wichard’s ratcheting mechanical adjuster. Looked at splitting the backstay, but after adding up the cost of new backstay plus split fittings, block and tackle, and new chainplates (I choose not to do structural work like chainplate design and installation myself) it was close to the cost of the ratchet adjuster and not really the route I wanted to take. Whatever you choose, do NOT relocate your lower backstay terminations to the toe rail or cast end fittings – that’s a recipe for disaster.
I’ve decided to go another route, and just picked up a Sailtec integral hydraulic adjuster (http://www.sailtec.com/hydraulic_integral_adjusters.php). It’s not cheap either, but retains the original backstay/chainplate configuration, allows me to keep the MOB pole on the backstay (instead of sticking it off the stern pulpit – man is that a fugly solution!), and looks kinda sexy and retro! Don’t plan on pumping tons of pressure, just enough to keep the forestay taught and the head sliding door operational!
Cheers,
Tal
Critical Path, Mk III #632
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Hi Tal,
I went for the Wichard adjuster ($471 from the Mauripro website).
http://www.mauriprosailing.com/Wichard-Backstay-Adjusters/WIC5526.html
You are right: splitting the backstay is scary and I will stay with the original design: a single chain plate.
Stéphane
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Hi Stephan
The MKV came two ways. My 1984 has a split backstay with dedicated attachment points on the transom (I wouldn't call them chainplates as they are simply SS ubolts) and the 1985 models have a cast aluminium fitting on the toe rails to which the split backstay is attached.
My post was not to encourage you to split the backstay, my knowledge of marine engineering is nil, only to show you how it was done on the MKV.
PS Hina who now sails in your fleet is from our club.
Rob Ladan _/)
Airborne ll MK V #520
Vernon Yacht Club, Vernon BC
Rob Ladan _/)
Airborne ll MK V #520
Vernon Yacht Club, Vernon BC
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Hi all,
I now have the Wichard backstay adjuster. All SS except for the wheel. Simple and doing the job: excellent. Used it for our long race last weekend.
Stéphane
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