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Hi,
Can anybody tell me what would be the dimensions (luff, leach, foot) for a 150 jib for a 27 MkIII?
There are 2 forward-facing sheaves, but they are at the same height, so it seems they are not suitable for a spinnaker, right? What can be done to install a spinnaker halyard?
thanks.
tom
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Tom, about rigging for spinnaker: there are a couple of projections on the masthead aluminum casting, which project forward of the mast. You mount a swiveling heavy-duty block to one of these projections and the spinnaker halyard feeds out to the sail through this block. If you have to use a shackle to mount the block, then make sure that it is one of the rounded, "bow" shackles. The rounded shape allows the block to pivot as the spinnaker moves from side to side. To run the line from the masthead down to the deck, the technique varies depending on whether or not you want the halyard to be internal. If not, then simply run it down the outside to a block at the tabernacle. However, I would recommend running the halyard internally. In that case, you will need a couple of halyard exit plates, available from Schaefer, Nicro-Fico and other manufacturers such as Ronstan. Basically, you cut a long narrow hole in the wall of your mast and then insert the halyard exit plate into the hole, fastening it with a screw or rivet. The purpose of the plate is to make sure that the halyard has a fair lead with no places to snag and wear down the cover layer of the line. The second plate is mounted at a suitable spot near the the base of the mast so that the halyard can be led out to a turning block at the tabernacle (base of the mast). I have dual spinnaker halyards and both of them have been run in this way. The two sheaves that are already located in your masthead casting are purely for genoa halyards. Try to get your hands on a Harken catalog (or check their website) as they illustrate virtually every possible way of rigging a sailboat.
By the way, when cutting holes in your mast for halyards to enter and exit, make sure that the holes are all at staggered heights, not at the same height on the mast. People have had their masts collapse because they cut too many exit holes in a ring around the mast. This happened to a few of the early Nonsuch yachts.
Hope this helps,
Marcus
Carriden, Mk III, Hull #847
Hello,
My older North 150 measures as follows:
luff - 34.5, leach - 33, foot - 19
I bought a sail for a Catalina 27 tall rig that measures: luff - 35.2, leach - 34.4, foot - 19.1 it just barely measures as a 155%. I have been happy with the fit of the sail.
Hope that helps,
Bob Wooden
Rhapsody C&C 27 Mk 3
Last edited by (2008-02-02 11:52:55)
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Hi Tom the luff length should be up to a max 36 1/2 feet if you are going to the deck subtract the length of any furling gear if used. The safest way is to measure your fore stay to check that it is still the original length. The foot length of about 18 1/2 feet.
Rod Martin
Short Sale
#684
Hi Tom,
Here's one more set of measurements for you, from a kevlar #1 I had built a few years ago for Critical Path (I = 37.00', J = 11.75'):
Luff = 36.75' (full hoist on a headfoil - Rod's measurements are close but not quite max!)
Leech = 35.54'
Foot = 18.48'
LP = 17.74'
Clew Height = 2" (this design dimension is the height on the horizontal above the tack)
The sail had an LP of 151% (with the luff tape added it came to 153%, the max without penalty under PHRF-LO when it was built).
The sail had a deep foot skirt and the clew ended up about 15" above the deck sheeted in hard when new.
If you're interested, I'll be designing a new 155% for the Path in the next month or so, and would be happy to add those numbers as well...
Cheers,
Tal Wolf
Critical Path
1976 C&C 27 MkIII #632
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my thanks to all who responded.
tom
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