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Any opinions regarding plastic vs brass through-hull fittings? Which are prefered and stand-up the best. I have 6 to replace. Dean
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
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Search back through our past posts for a thread called, 'Removing Gate Valves For The Scuppers', for positive opinions on Forespar's Marelon seacocks (or use the search function to look for 'Marelon').
The key thing to remember is that they're not 'plastic', they're fibreglass reinforced plastic, the same stuff your boat is made of (the plastic is different, but the plastic is just a binder). Most builders, even premium names, use them now because they're approved by ABYC, they're tough, they're electrically neutral and they're about 1/2 the price of bronze. They're a long step up from the brass gate valves C&C originally installed (which is what I presume you're replacing).
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Later: the thing I neglected is that they aren't - or shouldn't be - brass, but bronze. Brass is an ignoble metal in salt water and becomes brittle.
Last edited by (2005-12-04 11:01:27)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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For all who don't want to go thru the link - Plastic is much better. I'll start now. Thanks, David.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
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Dean: I'd be interested in a progress report if you do install Marelon through-hulls and seacocks. Thanks.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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The best thru-hull is no thru-hull.
My Mk I came with 8 holes below the waterline, it now has 5. After next haul it will have 0. If I were to have have an inboard engine, out of necessity it would have 2. One would be the sea-water intake in Marlon, the other would be a dripless shaftseal.
Warren Smith (AKA Tropical Warren)
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
Ken, I'll submit pics and word pictures as progress starts.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
Offline
Hi Dean. New entry in forum about through-hulls prompts this note. Did you ever do your conversion? Pix? Ciao.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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Another decision finalized - After weeks of fitting / ordering / returning, because I wanted an exact fit, so I didn't have to fare the spaces left behind. I went back to the bronze type. All bronze replacements fit. Don'y get me wrong - I did want the lighter parts but they just didn't conform to the old (holes). So, now the old holes are cleaned out, 4200'd and nuts tightened down. If nothing else, being the new owner I now know that they are solid and water tight. Bottom line - if you want to go to Marelon/plastic, you've got some filling to do.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
Offline
I also opted for bronze. Thanks, however, for the advice.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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I've got Ken on the hook to tell Black Arts about his A4 rebuild, so who's going to tell us about a) why the original valves were replaced; b) why the decision spiralled about plastic, then settled on bronze; c) how the job progressed; and d) anything else that comes to mind. Pics of course are the heart and soul of Black Arts.
This of course is not to rule out efforts from both of you, blended into a smooth puree of information by your
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