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Hi guys,
I was wondering if anyone ever replaced the stuffing in the shaft seal and can rember what size (dia.) packing they used?
The boat is MKIII unchanged from how C&C built it in 1975. I bought the boat 2 years ago and think it's about time to change the packing as last season it leaked about 1 liter per hour when motoring and about a gallon per week sitting at dock.
Also does the teflon packing offer any advantage over the regular stuff?
Thanks in advance,
John on Lake Erie
By all means go ahead and use the teflon packing... I did this eight years ago and I have not had a single problem (drip)... You will need the teflon packing kit and regular packing. Follow the directions that come with the kit and that is it.
I suggest that you wear disposable gloves when doing this just because the teflon grease is really difficult to get off your hands.
"IRIS"
C&C 27 MKlll, 1975
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
John: Assuming you cannot tighten the box anymore? (just in case)
There is a teflon packing, called something cute like "whitelon" or some such---that is "dripless". I like it on low rpm engines----but on high speed shafts there is sometimes a narrow margin between a "dripless" stuffing box-----and a "hot" one.Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
Thanks to all who replied,
Further research shows there are 4 main types of replacement packing, 1 regular flax and water proof grease 2 goretex, 3 Teflon, 4 Graphite. I'm leaning towards goretex or teflon but I need to know the diameter before I order some. The boat is a standard MKIII 1975 with the atomic 4 and everything else tat came with it. I'm told the shaft is 7/8" does this sound right? And what size stuffing do I need?
Thanks again,
John
You are right about the shaft being 7/8". The packing is generally sold by the foot at your ship's store or mega ship's store. The packing itself is square when viewed from the end and is usually sized by the 1/16. I think the 7/8" stuffing box takes 1/4" packing but you need to confirm that. The re-packing can be done in the water-----but it is much easier not to do a total re-pack till you and your boat are ashore. The quick-fix in the water goes like this: After purchasing 2' of the proper size---wrap it around the shaft and "overlap" the end. With a razor knife, cut thru both pieces on a 45 deg angle---the ends of the ring will butt-up at this angle rather than square. While you are at it ---go ahead and cut the balance into rings---stow them in a zip-lock bag. Since your box is already leaking---and you have no further adjustment room----you will be able to insert at least ONE ring (or more). Generally these small boxes will accept 3 to five rings of packing. Don't mess with trying to get more than one in there if you are in the water. The addition of one new ring will probably serve you well for the next ten years. (there are too many guys in this forum that will pick on me if I say--"close enough"). Don't even think about getting the old stuff out until you haul. BTW, getting the old out is best accomplished with a cork screw. If you replace muliple rings---stagger the joints. The adjustment of the box is a continueing thing till you get the "drip" or "non-drip" to your satisfaction. One drip every six seconds is good---if you insist on using the flax packing. I'm an old guy and do things the old fashioned way----but I've yielded to high tech. non-dripping stuff. For what its worth, I see no practical reason to remove old packing, ever. Just put the new in on top of the old. Oh yes, the zip-lock bag with the spares----no need to put it "on top" in the drawer---you won't need them in this decade. Good Luck,Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
Thanks Dave,
That's exactly the info I was looking for. My boat is still onshore from last winter so hauling is not a problem. I think I will try to dig the old stuff out just to see what's in there now. In the future I may just add more of the same as you suggested.
Thanks again,
John
John: did you ever ascertain whether the packing was quarter-inch? Thanks.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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Hi Guys, If I can add my 2 cents worth, Be very careful not to overtighten the stuffing box gland nut. Some packing is designed to drip to provide lubrication, therefore a drip can be normal. If you overtighten to stop the drip you may either burn the shaft or create a scallop effect ruining the shaft.
Ralph Ainslie
"Hyperion"
I did this repair a couple of years ago, and I'm sorry I can't remember the size. I do remember I put a micrometre on the shaft (7/8" just to confirm), then I used inside calipers to measure the ID of the "packing nut?" and then did the obvious math. I would suggest that it would be a really good time to look at the short piece of hose that connects the shaft log to the stuffing box and decide if it should be replaced while your at it. If so remove the shaft, then the whole works comes out and you can do it on the bench at home, in much more comfort and with better precision.
I went with old fashioned flax after I read something about the teflon version heating up and damaging the shaft (when used dripless as suggested by the manufacturer). I also read about possible corrosion problems with graphite, but I didn't really understand the logic.
Good luck
Chris
I'd heartily recommend a dripless shaft seal like the PYI - makes the entire "pack for a controlled drip" and the impossible to adjust stuffing box issue go away.
Regards,
PhilPhil Austin
"Cooee" C&C 27, Mk I, Hull #66
Sandpoint, Idaho
[If you're looking into a PYI Shaft Seal, don't be discouraged by the absence of the 7/8" shaft size from the Web site. It's a simple omission that PYI claims to be working to rectify. Canadians should note that the price in Canada - $237 - is significantly higher than the US price of US$170 (= C$196). Do not, however, allow a US seller to ship UPS, who charge an extortionate $50 brokerage fee. Use mail or FedEx. - Admin]
Last edited by (2006-02-21 02:10:36)
Phil Austin
"Cooee" ; C&C 27, Mk I, Hull #66
Sandpoint, Idaho
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I did some searching, but I could not confirm the packing size for a Mk III with 7/8 shaft.
Anybody can confirm packing size?
Allan
Allan
Cygnus
C&C 27 Hull 518
Offline
Hi Allen,
I was the one that started this thread. I did the shaft packing last year using the GoreTex type stuffing found here <A href="http://www.emarineinc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html">http://www.emarineinc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html</A>
I found it too dificult to seperate the stuffing box while still on the shaft (7/8 inch BTW) I pulled the shaft out and unbolted the whole packing box. I was glad I did as it was green and not easy to seperate even using a vice and pipe wrench. Using some fine picks to get the crud out of the threads and sand blasting the exterior I had it looking new again. I ordered the 5/16 goretex as that is what the site above recomends for a 7/8 shaft. I found I could only get 2 turns of the packing around the shaft, not three as some recomend. Not wanting to waste anymore time trying to find 1/4 goretex I went ahead and launched the boat. I have had no regrets as the goretex does not leak. I tighten the coupling by hand firmly but not as tight as possible. I wanted to see if I would need to tighten up again but I got it right the first time. If you use the 1/4" goretex I think you could get 3 turns around the shaft.
John on lake Erie
Thank you for following up on this, John on Lake Erie. Allen, it would close the loop, so to speak, if you could let us know what you use and how it works out. This is one of those bits of arcana that local chandleries seldom know about, so the combination of John's and your answer will make an excellent basis for a page in Black Arts. - Admin
Last edited by (2007-04-27 23:26:55)
I just repacked my shaft while doing some major work. I also used 5/16 teflon packing and was also unable to get three rings into the stuffing box (two barely fit). I have not yet launched, but can confirm the 5/16 size.
Bob Wooden - Rhapsody C&C 27 Mk 3
Offline
Just got back from the weekend and noticed that I have a small leak where the forward clamp on the short piece of hose connects the shaft log to the stuffing box. I didn't have time (darkness) to give it a good look and not sure whether is was the snuffing box or the actual poly pipe. Can anyone help, I'm assuming if it is the pipe she has to go on the hard and it all has to come out to replace it.
Dave
Red Pepper CC27 MKI
I had a similar problem with the hose leaking between the stuffing box and the hull. When I got down and started tightening the hose clamps it began weaping more. I pulled the boat and had every thing replaced from the transmission back including adding a new PSS shaft seal. Now the only water in the bilge is rainwater or the occasional spilled softdrink.
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
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I had a similar problem with the hose leaking between the stuffing box and the hull. When I got down and started tightening the hose clamps it began weaping more. I pulled the boat and had every thing replaced from the transmission back including adding a new PSS shaft seal. Now the only water in the bilge is rainwater or the occasional spilled softdrink.
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Offline
This season I finally replaced my packing and I got two rings of 1/4 inch and I think I can get a third ring in later after it has compressed a bit.
One drop ever 45 seconds. Not bad.
Allan
Cygnus
C&C 27 Hull 518
Allan
Cygnus
C&C 27 Hull 518
Offline
3 rings of 1/4 flax packing. Tried 5/16 but too large.
1972 Mark I with 7/8 shaft.
Work performed 3 weeks ago in the boat yard.
In the water this Friday at 3:30 PM for trip from Cleveland, Ohio to Erie, PA
Rick Ulam
Presque Isle, PA
1972 Mk I
Rick Ulam
Presque Isle, PA
1972 Mk I
Idylln
Offline
ditto. I tried 5/16, but it was too big.
Mine packing nut came apart remarkably easily.
Allan
Cygnus
C&C 27 Hull 518
Allan
Cygnus
C&C 27 Hull 518
Offline
Another ditto. Tried 5/16 and too big. 1/4 is the one. Perhaps our colleague who was pretty firm about 5/16 had a retrofit somewhere along the line? I used graphite version based on what my favorite marine store sells - but he did warn not to use in salt water. I dont plan to sail past Great Lakes.
Steve
1981 MkIII, Hull 886
Etobicoke YC, Toronto ON
Steve
1981 MkIII, Hull 886
Etobicoke YC, Toronto ON
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