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Canadian Tire has a new marine device that clamps on to the + terminal and allows you to draw on the battery until only enough juice is left to crank the engine, ($79). Then it opens teh circuit until you over-ride it to crank the engine. I am thinking of using it on the deep cycle crank along with the deep cycle house. That would access 1/3 of 2 batteries for house use. Any thoughts?
John - Weather or Not
Silkaflex, a black rubbery compound that dries to tire like finish will fill the gap and can be painted over. I'll tell you at haul out how well it works. It was recommended by Nat's in Pickering as a solution since it adheres to the cleaned out gap and never hardens.
John Dallas - Weather or Not
Yipeeeee! Spring has sprung. Before attacking the thru-hull with a drumel, I took once last kick at the can (valve) with a rubber mallet, (It sat all winter with 5/30 to just below the valve gate, and Release-It floated to cover the seized area). It moved! I shouted! It worked free with a 6" extension on the valve handle! If it does not free up completely during a summer's use, I'll use the Dumel cutting wheel this fall after haul out. Thank you for your help and I'll see you all on the lake. (My work took me into Extrudex in Vaughn Ontario and they have molds for various aluminum mast/boom profiles. If you just want a mast without fittings, rigging and without anodizing; this might be a very low cost source. They run one-offs and were making a 65' mast-extrusion while I was there - less than an hours work.)
John - Weather or Not
Thank you Dave and Marcu. The through hull was first sealed with a plastic bag then filled to below the gate valve with 5/30 and then topped with Liquid wrench in Nov. In April I'll wrap the valve body with a micowave heated pad and pack ice on the handle and try. If it doesn't go, I'll add a day to the chore list I guess? I'll see you on the race course. Been out of sailing for 20 years and got the fever bad for May to arrive.
John
I have a frozen valve and tried to replace it. Failed, the valve won't budge off the through-hull. On the outside of the hull there is no through hull fitting visible. It looks like it was glassed over. The through hull for the head is standard and visible on teh outside of the hull. I was advised not to try and free the valve with heat - a torch would be too close to the glass. Does anyone know how to remove the old one to replace the through hull and valve to the sink (bad pun n'est pas)? Has anyone done it?
John Dallas - Weather or Not - [address deleted]
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