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I have ordered new halyards for my 1976 mk 3 from West Marine but I'm not quite sure how to feed them thru the sheaves. Are the sheaves capable of accepting rope as well as wire? Either way, looks like the 3/8" line has to be fed thru where the wire runs in the sheave----is there a better "end" to start with---wire firs---or rope first? Will the rope run free when it gets up there being attached to the wire "messenger"?
Thanks
[Modified to add boat information that "Dave T" forgot in his original post. Note that if you register and log in, you can edit your posts later, plus you can add an automatic signature with club and/or boat info.]
Last edited by (2004-10-24 08:44:23)
I'm considering doing the same thing - did you ever get an answer/figure it out yourself?
Horace Henderson
76 MKIII - Newport RI
Indeed---obviously when the stick is down---no problem. I replaced the wire/rope halyards with the mast up----
The West marine halyards are fine----with a few feet extra. You can run them either way as the sheave will accept both. Since I didnt know---I ran the messenger line just in case.
I was not pleased with West Mar's nicro press fitting--(only one)--but I guess it will be ok----I always keep old halyards---why---I dont know----in 40 yrs of sailing I've never been forced to replace one under emergency situations.
Good luckDave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
This has been a topic of discussion many times in boat yards everywhere..... the easiest way to replace the halyards that I have run across is...... get yourself some heatshrink tubing from places like Radio Shack..... put the two end butt to butt ..cut enough HS tubing to extend 4 to 6 inches either side of the joint.... slip the tubing on both pieces.. use a heatgun (with caution) then by hand do a test pull on the joint... if it holds well, then pull the new one in place..... the nice thing is that the heat shrink tubing is inexpensive, flexible enough to go over sheaves, and will accomodate different sizes of wire/rope easily.
best of luck with the replacement,
"IRIS"
C&C 27 MK lll, 1975
Hull No. 453
Kittery Point, Maine
In a pinch (and without heatshrink tubing and a heat gun) a 14 inch length of duct tape will temporarily connect two lines butt to butt. Lay the tape , sticky side up and butt the lines together in the centre of the length and at the edge of the tape. Then roll the lines and tape -- just like the old hand-made cigarrette. Test-pull as "IRIS" suggests, before hauling one line through with the other.
Clare Jordan
<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
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If I don't wash my lines every couple of years, they turn green (mildew) and grey (ass't crud). So I pull all my halyards every couple of years. As they are wire-&-rope with shackles (I'd like all-rope, but don't want to be bothered with the necessary replacement of the wire-&-rope sheaves), they only go in one way, which is to say, from the top downward. This renders some of the techniques discussed here unhelpful.
What works is to swipe a darning needle from my mother-in-law (they're blunt, fat and they have large eyes (darning needles – let's leave mothers-in-law out of it)). This I use to stitch a couple of zigs and zags through the tail of a halyard with polytwine (blue-&-white polyethylene twine that's about $5/1,000 feet). I then cover the zigs and zags with a bit of tape for that belt-and-braces effect and pull the halyard out from shackle to tail, pulling the twine up into the mast and down to the deck. After the halyard is freed, I secure the ends of the polytwine at the base of the mast.
After the halyard is washed (tied in a coil with string, shackles padded with bits of cloth, maybe in a mesh lingerie bag), I do the zigs and zags and tape again, then pull the halyard back up into the mast. It probably sounds fussy, but it's simple, foolproof and quick, with resulting clean halyards. More to the point, others may find the polytwine idea a quick and inexpensive way of shifting halyards.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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I have always used David's method - stitch the halyard to a feeder line using a sailmaker's needle and thread, then cover with tape. It has never failed me.
Distant Thunder
MKV
As I mentioned in a previous post I always save old halyards. I'm in a major cleanup mode----took everything off the boat----everything!!!! Only gonna put what is absolutely necessary back on board. Re the halyards---mine were fine--no obvious wear----a bit dirty--(see post above). I decided to replace all running rigging--and did. If anyone needs halyards, you are welcome to the old ones. Just post your mailing address (no PO boxex for UPS) and I'll be happy to send them to you----Merry Christmas.
Dave in Ft MyersDave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
Since I don't have wire halyards, I can't answer the first part of the question but if I may add my two cents to the discussion, I have changed halyards and put new halyards on our boat and on other boats and have never had a problem.
On changing halyards, we simply (black electrical) tape a short piece of messanger line to connect the end of the the new to the old halyard. Leave a few inches between the old and the new so there will be no binding at the sheave. I like to start with a short loop, tape over it, lead the longer line down the halyard end and again, tape it once or twice, but not too much tape as it has to pass over the sheave. Never had a problem. If the new halyard has a shakle on it already, it will come down from the masthead. If not, it can either go up the mast or come down, your choice. I usually go down the mast.
We internalized the spinaker halyard this fall and after the holes in the mast were cut, we dropped a messanger line with a small weight on it, fished the lower hole, then taped the halyard (see above) and drew the halyard down, pulling lightly on the messanger. Again, no problem.
Old halyards make excellent dock lines. Our dock lines are premanently attached to our home moorage so we carry an old halyard while cruising in the summer. My wife laughs at the length but gee, I hate cutting a perfectly good line.
Fred Butler
LARK
Hello all,
I'm getting to that point where I have to replace all the lines. I checked out Stu Murray's web site and found what appear to be some good prices: <A href="http://www.cncphotoalbum.com">www.cncphotoalbum.com</A>
I'm wondering about the switch from 3/8" line with cable going to just 3/8" line. The boat is set up for either, just wondering about the difference in performance or life expectancy. The cost appears in favour of using just line.
Richard
Mitsu, 27 C&C Mk III 1976, Hull #650
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