This Forum is supported by C&C 27 owners like you whose membership in the C&C 27 Association makes possible this Forum and the accompanying site. Thank you, members, for your continuing commitment.
You are not logged in.
Pages: 1
Hey Guys,
I love having a resource such as the "General Discussion" to get answers to questions that otherwise would be gotten by experience and "oops". I have an old knot meter sending unit mounted under the port side settee. With the advent of hand held navigation my old knot meter's usefulness has gone by the wayside. From looking at the pictures in "black arts" of the mount under the settee, I believe I can use the existing hole that has been cut in the hull for the knot meter for a transducer depth finder. I just hate to cut a new hole. What do you think? By the way,this website makes owning and sailing a C&C 27 so much more enjoyable. Is there anyway to determine the owner's history of a particular boat. Any archieves that would list the original owner? Just curious about how my boat ended up in Atlanta Georgia. Thanks again guys.
Isn't it wild that instead of measuring your progress by reference to the medium you're sailing on, you're making decisions based on a datastream from something 22,500 miles away?
I'm not sure I understand why you're asking about the depth transducer. The photo shows a depth sounder transducer mounted under the port forward settee and I think the threads referenced on that page establish that it's a good location for these boats – especially given that there's almost no practical alternative. What's the issue?
Don't be too surprised to see C&C's far and wide – friend of mine found a C&C 34 at a marina in Zurich. South Shore (see Links) has all the original build and sales data. I don't know what their terms for a search are these days, but they certainly can tell you who the boat was sold to originally. In addition, your state licensing authority should know its history in Georgia; after all part of the rationale for paying that licence fee is that it provides some proof of title, so tell them you need an ownership history.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Offline
You don't need ANY HOLES!
I mounted my depth transducer (as recommended by several knowledgable authorities) directly to the hull on the inside with a "patty" of epoxy putty using the transducer designed for this purpose (I bought at West Marine). The location is near the knot meter thru-hull under the port settee, just a little higher. The read-out unit is a Standard Horizon, but all the transducers (I am advised) are made by the same manufacturer. This installation works great - just follow the provided directions. I have been able to verify accuracy with known and otherwise measured depths.
Recommendations did suggest using a plastic bag such as a zip-loc filled with water to locate and insure the proposed location has no voids within the hull structure that would interfer with the transmissions. You can also use mineral oil in a more complicated method.
Keeping with my feeling that the hull is intended to keep water out, I have been on a binge to eliminate as many of the below-waterline holes (8!) as I can that were in my boat when I acquired it. The knot-meter will be plugged on my next haul leaving only 4 remaining.
Warren Smith
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
David, re your comment about a state licensing agency having the ownership history of a boat. This prompted me to call Canada Customs to see if I could obtain the licensing history of my boat. I was told in no uncertain terms by two agents that this was confidential information and could not be divulged under the Canadian Privacy act.
I've mounted several Xducers inside the hull(s). The key issue is "solid medium" thru which the signal is sent and recieved---of course C/C would never allow any voids in thier laminate structure---but just in case---I prefer to bed the unit in a "patty" of silicone vs. the epoxy. At least you've got a shot at relocating it in the event you picked a bad spot---also--even though you picked a "good" spot---depending on the vessel---you might get some turbulance that interferes with performance.Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
In Florida, our friendly county tax collector and Dept of Motor Veh's keeps track of all that stuff----but this info is nown protected by privacy rights as well. I feel good about the Dept of Homeland Security having the capability of protecting us all from a fleet of attacking c/c 27's. (Avoiding the "T" word).Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
Hello,
I hate through-hulls, and my present boat has only four. (five if the monster one for the saildrive is counted)
Method for depth transducer, mould a tube of polyester/glass the length of the transducer, but not a tight fit. Bond this to hull using a puddle of epoxy and get the puddle inside the tube as flat as possible. The top of the tube could be threaded, but I have found that a light push fit will retain the transducer.
Get ultrasonic contact by a little water in the bottom of the tube.
Advantage of this system is that it is easy to remove the transducer.
I tried vegetable cooking oil but got a max. depth reading of 20metres. (Navman 100)
Next question.
I have been having a forum discussion with a Trapper 500 owner about cockpit drains. and the desire to eliminate the through hulls. ( I have a Superseal 26 where the drains go to the transom above the waterline)
Have any C&C27 owners tried this?
Frank Marsden
Frank,
In my previous response I omitted mentioning the well/submersion technique because it just seems too messy. I did find it as a recommended method - using glassed in pvc pipe and a screw-on top. The recommended liquid is mineral oil - won't support organic growth or evaporate. You may want to try that. Also, pvc to fiberglass (in my experience) does not give a reliable joint.
Thru-hulls: I am glad to see others have thought of this. I have seriously considered re-routing to thru-transom, I see no reason why it would not work. I also previously had boats with this system and they worked fine.
By the way, if it was not such a major construction project, I would raise the cockpit floor about three an a half inches in the front and slope to about one inch in the rear. No thru-hulls and much better ergonomics. Right now I have a grate floor raising the floor as such and it is much more comfortable.
As for the saildrive, I would worry about internal mechanical failure which would be impossible to get to to plug a leak. If that thing ever dies, you may consider a traditional outboard installation (you already have an outboard) as I have done. I love it and the storage space it opens up is enormous and very usable.
Warren Smith
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
Warren.
When I bought the boat this Feb. it had the saildrive, with my experience now I would never fit one.
The only time my depth trans. goes wrong is in rough water, when I can loose signal for a while.
Within 7 miles of my mooring the depth goes from 90 metres to 9 metres, this is in a place you should not be, convergence of two south going tidal streams for most of the tidal cycle
I also think we had correspondance about broken rudders a year ago.
I now have a grp rudder, similar to a MK V 27. which is terminally cracked.
Am about to make a new one from Douglas Fir. Any comments?
Frank
Frank
Frank,
The deepest water I have to test my transducer is 52' - the Houston Ship Channel. Galveston Bay has a max depth of around 10'. We sail in pretty "thin water" and accept occasional groundings as a normal course of sailing - we really need a reliable depth reading! My installation seems to work just fine in all conditions I have encountered.
As for the rudder, I will respond to your old post under that thread, with the thought other interested owners can trace and learn from our experiences by subject.
Warren Smith
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
Pages: 1