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My newly purchased 27 with atomic 4 turned out to be slipping in forward. Short of time and eager to move from previous owners club back to my home base I hired a yard mechanic to fix. A look at the manual described the notched wheel adjustment but the mechanic did not say he did this adjustment. No more slipping but very hard to lock the gear shift into forward and dangerously hard to pull or push it back to neutral. Where should I be looking for whatever needs redoing or adjusting. Back at home base where I can address this.
Mike Ware
C&C 27 Mark 1 1971 Parsifal
Bronte Harbour Marina
Mike Ware
C&C 27 Mark 1 1971 Parsifal
Bronte Harbour Marina
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Hi Mike,
The adjustment that you mention, is provided to take up for wear in the clutch plate over time. As happened to you, a worn clutch plate will eventually lead to slippage.
The mechanic who did your adjustment may have set up the clutch two " notches" when one " notch" may have been enough. If you leave it "as is ", over time, shifting will become easier as the clutch plate slowly wears again but if it is now just too stiff to shift easily, back off one "notch" on the adjustment inside the transmission.
Clare Jordan Aragorn
Clare Jordan,
Stormont Yacht Club,
Long Sault
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Thanks Clare,
I suspected that is what happened but the guy said he did something to the bands which I read is reverse only which worked fine, not this notched mechanism. Anyways I will try a one notch back and see what the result is. One other question, I assume there is oil in there. does this just come from the standard engine oil or is it different transmission oil. Do I need to add anything here or just make sure the engine is topped properly.
Thanks so much for feedback from experienced users. This is a brand new engine experience (not new engine) for me.
Mike
Mike Ware
C&C 27 Mark 1 1971 Parsifal
Bronte Harbour Marina
Mike Ware
C&C 27 Mark 1 1971 Parsifal
Bronte Harbour Marina
Offline
Hey again Mike,
The oil you see in the transmission is engine oil --- the engine base and the transmission are connected and the same oil lubricates both. Note: when you change your engine oil, you will only be able to suck out about 3 1/2 litres so in reality, you cannot do a "complete" oil change as some old oil always stays in the transmission.
It has been about 12 years since I adjusted my transmission clutch but as I remember it, the adjustment nut is locked in place with a 'bendable' sort of "keyway" which must be released in order to move the adjustment. If the adjustment is set too 'high' you'll have difficulty forcing the gears into either fwd. or reverse. If set too 'low', slippage will occur. You should be able to find a happy medium.
Clare. Aragorn
Clare Jordan,
Stormont Yacht Club,
Long Sault
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Hello Mike,
I encountered the very same issue when adjusting the transmission in our Mk 1. It slipped under higher loads so I read the manual and made the adjustment. It's been a few years so I cannot remember the details other than I inadvertently moved the adjustment ring two slots when trying to move it only one.
Apparently this is a common mistake as I called Don Moyer and he suggested this may have happened after describing to him how hard it was to engage my transmission after making the adjustment.
I adjusted the ring back one slot, reassembled the transmission and tested both the engagement lever force and whether it slipped or not. The engagement force was significantly less and the transmission no longer slipped.
It has been about three years since I made the adjust and transmission still operates fine. No slippage even under the higher loads when I need to run at top speed for short period of times when motoring through our channel.
So based on what I read, the experience I had and the advice from Moyer Marine, I'd say you may have the same problem.
Take care,
Rick Ulam
Presque Isle, PA
1972 Mk I
Idylln
Last edited by (2015-08-06 02:47:51)
Rick Ulam
Presque Isle, PA
1972 Mk I
Idylln
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There are many explicit and implicit questions in this thread, some of which are answered, some of which may yet have to be puzzled out. I would suggest, though, that most if not all are well answered by the possession of Mr Moyer's A4 manual.
If you have an A4 and do not have the manual, I strongly urge that you get a copy. Firstly, you will do routine maintenance (you do perform routine maintenance or have someone do it, don't you?) with greater assurance. Secondly, you will probably be able to diagnose and address issues like the one raised in this thread more quickly and efficiently, with a lot less head-scratching and hesitation. You will avoid blundering up blind alleys, either by yourself or with the help of mechanics. The A4 is now so old and so old-tech that a lot of otherwise knowledgeable mechanics are bowled over by it. The engine is really quite simple though, if you know its ins and outs, which the manual explains.
Buy a copy. It may seem expensive, but it's worth every penny in questions answered and potentially, dollars saved.
- Admin
Last edited by (2015-08-07 05:10:58)
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Great point, Towser.
Some learn from their mistakes ( or the mistakes that others on the forum have made ) but Moyer's manual is certainly to be recommended. Going down the wrong road starting out from making a bad diagnosis of a problem can be time consuming, frustrating and expensive.
Clare Jordan Aragorn
Clare Jordan,
Stormont Yacht Club,
Long Sault
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