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I have searched the archives and see that most people recommend between 3 and 4 gallons of Interprotect for a 27 Mk III. I have also seen the recommendation of a "roll and tip" application. I am familiar with this technique from other marine paint products. My question is can you tip with an inexpensive foam brush? Did others who "rolled and tipped" do this singlehanded? When I did the deck on my Shark with an expensive two part epoxy a couple of years ago I found the tipping had to be done with a very expensive natural bristle brush. The foam brush just caused streaking or smudges. The paint skimmed over very quickly and you had to have a 2nd person to tip almost imediately after rolling on the paint. Additinally, did you tip every coat, or just the final one/two?
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Greetings. I did the bottom job on my boat last year during which time I e-mailed all my friends and told them that when bad people die they go to a boatyard to strip old barriercoat off boat hulls. With that done came the application of 4 gallons if IP2000. The MkV hull has a little less wetted surface than previous marks so 4 gallons went a long way. I found tipping with the foam brush actually worked a little but they tend to break apart in the process and overall I was not happy with the result. Instead of tipping during each coat I just rolled on 5 coats alternating grey and white, then went lightly over it all with the random orbital sander and 180 paper. This took down all the orange peeling of the final coat and left me with a very smooth surface over 4 good coats. My plan was to roll and tip a 5th coat but during that evening the temperature stayed at the daytime high of 30C (one of the rare hot spells we had last summer) and the paint was hardening as fast as I applied it. My friend who was doing his best with the natural brush right behind me was just making ruts in the paint. I did 1/4 of one side, gave up and sanded that attempt back down. When the temp dropped to 20C I applied 2 coats of freezer chilled VC17 by spotlight. I'm not sure if Interlux would recommend the IP2000 technique but I found it worked for me with less hassle and without the need of a second beer drinker.
Good luck with your bottom job.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
;
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I do my Interprotec with a roller good for solvent, and put the roller in the freezer between coat. Like Brent i put an extra coat and sand it for smoothness. I use a 100 grit and it was too rough for the VC17. Use at least a 220 grit for better result and don't wait too long after the last coat. Interprotec came very hard at the end of polymerisation ( I think 30 days ),
Good idea to use two kind of color !
Jean :-)Jean Rivest,
Sorel-Tracy
To answer the specific questions, 'What kind of brush?' and 'Did you work alone or with help', I used a variety of relatively inexpensive bristle brushes, and it didn't seem to make much difference which type I used. I tipped with a very light touch and occasionally wiped accumulated Interprotect off the bristles to keep it from re-depositing.
I did this alone, once on the hull at the lower end of the material's working temperature range and once (rudder) in the basement at the middle of the range. The most critical element is correct mixing. I somehow contrived to get the proportions off (it could only have been slightly wrong) and the stuff was an absolute pig to handle, streaking and clumping. Most times it went on beautifully, giving more than adequate time to tip. If I recall correctly, I did sizes like the whole of one side of the bow, or one side of the rudder, which let me tip and still maintain a wet edge when I went back to the roller. I tipped every coat, no sanding until I was ready for bottom paint, and I think this made a major contribution to the end result, which is very slick.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Thanks for the good input fellas. Isn't sanding off VC Tar a wonderful job? I found that the Soy based stripper actually removed 90% and therefore was very helpful. I like the alternating colour idea (white wasn't available when I worked on my Shark). And it looks like I'll tip each coat. Here in Kingston, I'm sure I won't find any trouble getting cool enough weather in the spring!
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I'll add one more thing to David's comments on mixing. I purchased about a dozen clear plastic graduated measuring cups from a Dollar Store and used them for each batch. I usually mixed 1 litre at a time, put it in the tray to kick and started a second batch. By the time the first litre was used up, the next was ready to go on. If you leave IP2000 in a plastic cup overnight you will find the bottom of the cup rather spongy and melted by morning. Don't use your wife's cups. Its a bad thing.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
;
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