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Turned a milestone corner in the refit tonight. After weeks of preparation, I epoxied up about 70 bolt holes in the deck. I had removed all the hardware to paint the deck. I am abandoning the 6 lifeline stanchions on the deck, so those 24 holes could be filled in. The handrail holes all needed epoxy cores to protect the still-white balsa, and I will have to redrill new holes. Had to anyway, because a third of the screws broke off and stayed in the teak. I tried to remove them, but way too difficult - the brass just breaks up. So I'll shift the outside rails forward 3/4". I am also abandoning the extra set of winches and several cleats in favour of line clutches, so all those holes could be filled in. Hired some help to fair the hull.
Unbelievably, some time between last summer when we stripped the deck and now, I've misplaced the deck chain pipe fitting. It was beautiful: stainless with a hawse extension protecting the open balsa core so well that it was bone dry. Now I'll have to epoxy that edge (was going to anyway) and had to order a new deck pipe. Of course, I can't find one near as nice as that old original. Sigh.
The new window spline and sponge kit arrived from South Shore today, and a local shop is cutting the new windows.
Spring deadline is starting to look do-able.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Last edited by (2009-01-27 11:57:57)
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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Six months of preparation, finally painting the deck! Got first coat of primer on part of it last night. Phew.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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I hope you have been keeping a photo diary of your progress. I enjoy reading folks websites documenting extensive renovations to their beloved C&C's. I wish I was as far ahead as you but living in the center of cold Canada with my boat frozen solid in the yard I'm going crazy with the anticipation of beginning the work.
My list includes repairing a poorly repaired hull in front of the keel
Pulling the toerails and rebedding
Rebedding the windows
Epoxy injecting bottom of main bulkhead.
Fix spider cracks on the deck
Painting the hull
Re bedding the companionway sliders
Replacing the septic system (stink factory)
Building new stormboards etc, etc, etc. Dang its a good thing I love doing this stuff!
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
;
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Wow, Brent, that's a big list. I've been at it since last February, and estimate I'm about 60% done. Starting to reassemble things now. The boat is sound, and my plan is to redo all the systems so I can start out right. I like doing this too (be crazy to take it on if didn't). The list:
- engine refit (no need to pull engine, just paint, upgrade parts, renew hosees, etc).
- compounded topsides and new bootstripe, cove, name decals.
- sanded and painting deck after removing all hardware.
- fairing hull after soda blasting/sanding, then barrier coat and bottom paint.
- varnish and paint cabin, engine space, and all lockers.
- revise deck running rigging layout and hardware.
- replace all wiring, new distribution panels.
In doing the deck, I chased all the bolt holes to ensure the balsa core is solid and then epoxied any that were not epoxy-protected, which was most). Very impressed with how white and solid the deck core is everywhere in this 35 year old boat. Only found one 4" square of core problem around one sidestay chainplate. The bulkheads are fine. I opened up all 6 sidestay chainplate holes, made oval coffer dams and refilled with epoxy to seal them off.
Working indoors, so it is quite pleasant. Coveralls, music, good lighting, warmth, tools and a boat - perfect way to spend winter hours.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
Last edited by (2009-02-13 19:50:03)
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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That sounds like the ideal way to spend evenings. Will this winter never end?!?!?!
Brent
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
;
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Got the second and third coats of Interprotect on the hull today. In the morning I finally get to put down the last coat of Interprotect and the first coat of bottom paint. Phew. Big milestone in this project.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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I ordered my 4 gallons of grey and white interprotect as per your recommendations. I also took the time to watch the clips on application on the Interlux website and now I'm anxious to get going too. Today I got the mast off the boat (a freaking tough job as a solo act) pulled off my prop and began some removals. It was a warm day and I felt accomplished finally! Tomorrow I'm sending the prop to Martec and and weather permitting will continue removal of deck hardware. I gotta fix the leaks as the cabin resembles a colander inside with melt water dripping in everywhere!
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
;
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I don't know if it was just me, but I ended up using only two gallons - about half a gallon per coating. Fortunately managed to sell the unused two. Also, I used the wrong roller and ended up with slight stippling after putting on the two coats of Micron CSC. I had done what I thought was a lot of research on the right roller to use, but I guess not enough. I test sanded a patch and can get the hull smooth without disturbing the 4th coat of Interprotect. Maybe check directlky with Interlux on the right roller.
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"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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This may be something worth discussing and clearing up on this thread. Interprotect is NOT a paint. It is an epoxy barrier. In order for Interprotect to provide adequate resistance to water penetration, the coating must be sufficiently thick. Quoting from the product datasheet: "Apply enough Interprotect 2000E to reach a final Dry Film Thickness of 10 mils. This usually takes 4-5 coats but the amount of paint is more important than the number of coats." We all want to be economical in applying bottom paint (especially with the price of VC17!), but with Interprotect it is the final volume of epoxy used that matters, not how many thick or thin coats you managed to put on.
If the below water-line surface of a C&C 27 were changed into a flat, rectangular shape, it would measure about 23 ft by 6-1/2 ft, for a total of about 150 square feet. Add in about 25 square feet for the keel surface, if you want to cover that as well, for a total surface of 175 square feet. If each coat is rolled on at exactly the thickness recommended by Interlux, it takes a minimum of 4 coats to achieve exactly 10 mil. Let's say we should apply five coats to be safe, to allow for variations in the final DFT (Dry Film Thickness) of each coat. Since Interlux projects that one gallon, applied by brush, can theoretically cover 240 square feet at the required DFT of 2.5 mil, it should take 3/4 of a gallon for each bottom coat on a C&C 27. If a coat takes less than that, then the layer is not thick enough. It is not unusual for a layer to be too thin if you start applying the mixed epoxy before it has had adequate "set-up" time.
The end result of these numbers is that if you haven't applied at least 3 to 3-1/2 gallons of Interprotect to the bottom of a 27, then you do not have enough of it in place to provide an adequate barrier to water penetration. It doesn't matter if that amount is applied in 2 thick coats (very unlikely) or 8 thin coats. All that matters is that you get enough of the stuff onto the bottom to build up a final thickness of over 10 mil. Remember to apply extra layers if you are going to be sanding it smooth for a racing finish.
I'm a bit sensitive about this because I have done this job on 5 boat bottoms now. With my 27, I first had to spend countless hours of drudgery sanding off a coating of Interprotect that had been poorly applied and wasn't adequately thick. Someone had tried to both economize and do the job without fully understanding the instructions before-hand, leaving me with a messy situation to clean up and make right.
Okay, that's my rant for this week. May you now be blessed with calm seas and a following wind.
Marcus from Carriden
Mk III, Hull #847
Oakville, Ontario
Marcus Opitz,
Formerly from Carriden, Mk III, Hull #847,
now skippering "Everdina," a 1975 Ontario 32
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> Remember to apply extra layers if you are going to be sanding it smooth for a racing finish.
If you roll-and-tip Interprotect, it can come out as a very smooth finish. Mine did, anyway (I have to give credit to a fortunate turn in the weather). I rolled and tipped six coats, wet on green per instructions, so no inter-coat sanding was called for. The final coat was quite slick. The only sanding I did was little more than a dusting, to give some tooth for anti-fouling adhesion. Just as well, because it's a bitch to sand.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Last edited by (2009-03-16 08:09:41)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Thanks for the additional clarity on this topic.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
;
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The hull barrier job was up there on the DIY challenge scale. If I was to do it again, I'd consider hiring someone familiar with it.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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Anyone who is familiar with it never wants to do it again.
Marcus from Carriden
Mk III, Hull #847
Oakville, Ontario
Marcus Opitz,
Formerly from Carriden, Mk III, Hull #847,
now skippering "Everdina," a 1975 Ontario 32
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