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I understand drilling two holes to let the water drain out, but where? The photo of Hyperion's exploded Mk II rudder suggests the empty space is small and a long way up from the bottom of the rudder. Is the idea to drill into the side of the rudder at about the top and bottom of that space?---------
1974 C&C 27 Mk II
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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Can anyone give me guidance on the best locations to drill the two holes for a Mark II rudder? Thanks.
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1974 C&C 27 Mk II in PEI
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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I have one each side, just aft of the maximum thickness and just before the blade starts to taper to the bottom. This position is dictated primarily by an area of delamination, but I think it would be a reasonable spot even if there were no delamination at that point. I don't think it's necessary to make a vent hole above; the water seems to find its way out.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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There are lots of opinions I've heard on this:
Drill a 1/4" hole laterally up from the bottom of the rudder (parallel to the post) about an inch astern of the rudder post using a 12" long bit
Drill three or more holes laterally thru the rudder at diffirent depths behind the rudder post, using magic drill through every wood/foam filled chamber
etc, etc etc
The problem is water could settle into any filled chamber of the rudder along the rudder post. The chambers are adjacent to one another along the depth (length) of the rudder.
If you do a search on rudder water freezing you might find the RCAF had a real problem with planes and rudder leaks and freezing flying at high altitudes. They did research drillingg holes and found in airplanes (fibreglass filled aluminum) & they took 90 days to drain dry! It can be done in one day applying a vacumn to the lowest hole. Positive pressure on a higher hole does not work according to their research. So haul out 90 days before freeze, or store indoors, or drill a few holes, or buy a replacement rudder every 30++ years (still in stock in C&C in the states for $2k) .... Myself I took my rudder home last winter .. drilled a few holes and got a litre of water out (leaning it against the water heater), took a Dremel to the area around the rudder post, backfilled with SIKAFLEX, took off the A/F paint,, sealed with Interprotect, and wonder. I will drill a few drain holes at haul-out this year and if water comes out, leave the holes.... if not brag a lot and seal the holes back up. I don't think I'll be bragging this winter.
A guru at our club (there a many, many) has about 6 holes placed where he guesses the chambers are and they leak gallons at haul out every year and no new rudder yet, on his 15 year old Serius 28.
If anyone has the plans or pictures showing the foam/wood fill chambers on the marks that would answer it for you and me... maybe, I'm sure?John Dallas
Weather or Not (aka: "WON")
<A href="mailto:jedlls@sympatico.ca">jedlls@sympatico.ca</A>
John Dallas
Weather or Not (aka: "WON")
<a href="mailto:jedlls@sympatico.ca"></a>
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Thanks John. a few weeks ago I drilled 7 holes a few inches aft of the rudder post, from about 1/2 way up to the bottom. (The boat is on the hard for a major refit ove the next year or so). The lowest hole that drained the most (just a dribble) was about 6 inches from the bottom. After a few weeks I filled the rest and left that one open, although it was no longer draining. Then I noticed weeping from two holes up: when I checked with a screwdriver, the epoxy plug was very thin and weeped a little water when I opened it back up.
So clearly there is no simple space in there. I look forward to any insights about how the original Mk I/II rudder is constructed.
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1974 C&C 27 Mk II in PEI
Last edited by (2008-08-12 20:28:25)
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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