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Searched the site for this, but couldn't find anything under "anchor locker." I have a Mk 1 and am determined to solve the vexatious problem of what to do with the chain and rode without a proper locker. I've thought of just punching a hawse hole pipe or whatever it's called through the deck into the forward locker. Solutions would be most welcome.
Doug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.douglashunter.ca
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You didn't find anything in all likelihood because your search was too precise; a more general search will give more irrelevant results but a higher potential for finding what you want – if it's there.
Search "anchor" under "Message" for the broadest results, under "Subject" for a slightly narrower focus. Since few of us (especially me) stay precisely on topic, searching "Message" will give you everything we have, at the price of having to read through a few more items that are less relevant.
There is a long discussion under "<a href="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=1513">Anchor well</a>" that pops up with a search for "anchor".
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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I went through the same angst with my early Mark III and, after much research and consultation with other owners, decided that the hawsepipe approach was the cleanest -- and easiest -- solution. It's offset to starboard (port would be OK too) so that I still use the once central mooring cleat. I considered putting in on centre and installing port and starboard cleats but figured the single one worked just fine. As for the "locker", I salvaged some 1/2-inch smoked acrylic that I had left over from a hatch project and cut a triangular shape which is bolted inside the bulkhead at the stem. I deliberately left about three inches open at the top in case I had to free up any snarls, which haven't happened. It works very nicely and the total cost, excluding the acrylic, was under $60, including the hawsepipe and SS fasteners. I'm sure you can scrounge acrylic from a local plastics supplier; they often have scrap bins but even if you had to buy it and have them cut it to shape (from a paper pattern you provide), you should be able to keep the entire cost under $100.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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Thanks Ken:it's the reply I was hoping for, as it seemed the simplest. Snarls were a concern, and I'm glad they haven't plagued you. I assumed that any water on the road and chain would head to the bilge and be dealt with there. The only other issue I had was how smelly the rode might make the V-berth, but if the access port is decently secured I'm guessing that shouldn't be a problem.
One more cheap solution making other rather expensive ones possible.
doug
Hi Ken: further to my earlier response, wondered what you dealt with when it came to deck coring when you punched through. Is the deck cored in this area or solid glass?
Doug
Hi Doug. This might horrify purists, but if you buy a hawsepipe with a sufficiently long lower collar, i.e. one that protrudes down below the underside of the deck into the locker space, you shouldn't have to worry about whether the deck is cored. Having masked off the area where I wanted to install the fitting, I used the lower collar as a template for the main hole cutout and fittings holes. I cut and drilled the deck and after checking to make sure the hawspipe fit appropriately, slathered the lower collar and the deck flange with 3M4200 (not 5200), coated the machine screw heads with more 4200 and fastened the whole thing in place -- but not all the way. I did the final tightening 24 hours later after the caulk had had time to set up.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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Thanks. I'm just mildly paranoid about poking holes in the deck. The boat had a pretty thorough professional overhaul some years ago (before I owned her) that addressed core problems and moved all the stanchions to the toerail. When I had her surveyed in 06, the surveyor told me the deck was as dry as household drywall, and I sure want to keep it that way.
Any paticular style of hawse pipe?
thanksDoug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.sweetwatercruising.com
Doug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.douglashunter.ca
Offline
There are rectangular and round ones available, but I opted for an oval shape, which happened to be on sale at my local chandler. It has a sprung hinge, which I think is a better arrangement than the ones on which the lid is attached with a light ball-chain. It's installed, as I noted previously, on the starboard side of the foredeck, about three inches in from the toerail with the hinged side toward the toerail. It's all a matter of personal choice. Cheers.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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