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Since this first post was published, we've added quite a bit more about ethanol problems. This thread is no longer simply about tanks but the entire fuel system. Ethanol-flavoured gas is spreading fast, so if you have a gas engine, you should read this thread.
This site has published a number of warning related to the steel tanks used on early 27's. Accordingly, you may be thinking of replacement, possibly with a fibreglass tank (or fiberglass as you say south of the border). Boat/US has published a page, at http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/fueltest.asp#results , that indicates that fibreglass and ethanol don't mix. The results include weakening of the tank and damage to the engine by resin that has been partly dissolved by the ethanol.
Gas/ethanol mix is still relatively rare but it could be coming your way. Read this page before changing out your steel tank.
Any 27 owner might enjoy the Seaworthy pages on this site. There's a good deal of guilty pleasure to be had from looking at the photos of other people's mishaps as well as guides to everything from rig inspection to anchoring. Look also in the Archive pages.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Later addition: I've been advised that ethanol is more common in Ontario than I supposed. Look for a discreet advisory sticker on the pump.
Last edited by (2007-10-30 04:51:08)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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David and others;
I’ve been working with this issue of ethanol in gasoline for the last two years.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Please keep in mind that so far, ethanol is only an issue in gasoline.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>I am not aware of any Diesel fuel with ethanol added and there are currently no initiatives to add ethanol to diesel.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>That said, if anyone has a boat with an Atomic 4 or other gasoline engine, you may find the following information to be useful in saving you future grief.
Gasoline with 10% ethanol is very common in the U.S. marinas.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Additionally, many owners don’t want to pay the higher prices marinas charge for gas so they use the red jerry-jugs to bring fuel to the boat from the least expensive source.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>And many of these have nothing but E10 gasoline.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>So it is common here and if it’s not in common in Canada yet, it is still something all boaters should be aware of.
In addition to the issue of ethanol dissolving resins in fiberglass fuel tanks as described by BoatUS in their Seaworthy testing, ethanol blended gasoline has been linked to being the cause of fouled fuel filters, damage to aluminum tanks, fuel lines and fuel pumps as well as other engine problems in older marine vessels. pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>There are two major factors about ethanol to be concerned about.
First, ethanol is a very effective cleaning solvent. pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Whatever film and sludge may be lining an old aluminum or steel gasoline fuel tank will likely be loosened by the ethanol and pushed through the fuel filters and the fuel pump on its way into the boats engine.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Anybody who has looked inside an old aluminum gasoline fuel tank can see a dark brown lining.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>This “lining” is a film that is proven to be loosened by ethanol in the gas.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>The ramifications of “chunks” of loosened film and sludge flowing toward the filters and pumps are obvious.
Second, ethanol is very hydroscopic, capable of absorbing 100 percent of its weight in water.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>This should concern the boat owner who needs to pay much closer attention to the fuel/water separator.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Some older gas engine installations have only a fuel filter but no water separator, meaning water is making its way into the engine.
guage: AR-SA">As stated above, there are reports of leaking aluminum fuel tanks linked to the use of E10 gasoline; this makes sense given the characteristics of ethanol listed above.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN></SPAN>Aluminum is a highly conductive metal relying on an oxide layer for its corrosion-protection properties.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Low levels of ethanol, such as E10, usually are not a problem in aluminum tanks because the oxide layer provides protection.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>However, there are two mechanisms occurring with ethanol, both are a result of the ethanol absorbing water.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>The more ethanol in the fuel, the more water there will be in the fuel tank.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Water not only corrodes the tank, it also causes the corrosion particles to clog fuel filters, fuel systems and damage engine components.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>The corrosion rate can be accelerated under a number of conditions if other contaminating metals are present, such as copper, which could be picked up from brass fittings or as a low-level contaminant in the aluminum alloy.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>In the long term, corrosion can perforate the aluminum, producing leaks and causing fuel spillage into the bilge.
The second mechanism involved here is "galvanic corrosion."pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Gasoline fuel is not conductive, but the presence of ethanol or ethanol and water will conduct electricity.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>The galvanic process affecting drives shaft, shaft couplings and so on also will occur within the aluminum tank.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>The best protection against galvanic corrosion within the fuel tank is to make certain the fuel tank is properly bonded and/or that there is no water in the fuel tank by the use of a separate water separator in the fuel line system.
In any event, the saying that cleanliness is next to godliness is true with regard to your fuel system as well.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>A clean fuel system means that E10 will only help keep it clean (provided you can separate the water effectively.) pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Also it is important to have access to be able to quickly change fuel filters if necessary.pacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Frequently monitor the fuel tank for leaks by maintaining a clean bilge and monitoring for gasoline leaks into the bilge.Scott Schoeler, MKIII, "Scot-Free"
Last edited by (2007-10-28 07:40:13)
Scott Schoeler, Hull 858, "Scot-Free"
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Following on Scott's remarks, I Googled 'ethanol' and 'boat'. As usual, there's a fair bit of brainless rubbish being talked but I did find a page on ethanol on the Mercury Marine site. (Mercury have always set a high standard in disseminating technical information, so I'm inclined to trust it. Also, a gas engine is a gas engine, inboard or outboard, so 99% of it applies.) Since we're entering our oh-god-no-sailing & layup season, the storage section struck me particularly - http://www.mercurymarine.com/serviceandwarranty/outboardfaqs/ethanol.php#18
Briefly, Mercury recommends removing ethanol/gas mixtures for storage longer than two months (an option I would reject if I still had an A4, as few of us have pumps capable of draining a gas tank safely). The other option is to fill the tank full, so as to minimize the amount of condensation that can form, then add the standard amount of fuel stabilizer. I would also check to be sure that the o-ring on the fuel filler is in good condition (on most boats, the thing has rotted off and not been replaced).
Mercury also recommends that any boat built before the mid-eighties have its fuel line replaced as ethanol breaks down previous generations of hose rubber.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Last edited by (2007-10-28 07:41:22)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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