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Any ideas on sealing a chainplate? When it rains I have slight leakage around the starboard chainplate what would be the most effective method to seal this area up?
I'm in the middle of doing the same. I found a generic marine sealant worked fine on the forestay plate above the bulkhead I just cauked (leaked down the bulhead wall). Not sure if my method is the best, but I just cleaned it well, tightened the plate bolts and gooped in the sealant.
I'd also be interested in some expert advice...
Duncan
Freestyle 27 '85 Mach V (debate here on the actual numbering )
Vancouver, B.C.
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I had some leakage around mine; moreover, I had heard from a friend about a 27 that had required expensive repairs around the chain plates because water had run down the opening and entered the deck core (the opening is simply cut through the glass-&-balsa laminate - it should have been solid glass at this point, but hindsight is marvellous). The owner of this boat is also to blame because he responded to the leak by sealing the _underside_ of the deck, which meant that entering water had nowhere else to go but into the balsa.
Therefore, I removed the cover plates and the chain plates themselves (a socket set is essential), gouged out the balsa as far in as I could reach (once you've loosened the balsa, an Allen key in an electric drill cleans out the material quickly), then filled the cavity where the balsa had been with epoxy stiffened with cabosil. The water entry had been mild or not of long term so although there was some staining on the bulkhead where the bolts passed through, the bulkheads and the chain plates were sound. I re-installed the chain plates then replaced the cover plates using 3M 5200 as the sealant.
One leaked slightly this spring, so I pulled the cover, cleaned everything with acetone and rebedded it. No more leaks. I was told by a fellow who does this repair regularly that, while the chain plates were off, I should have roughed up the bonding area to give the 5200 better tooth. I think I just didn't clean it properly. You be the judge which of us is right, or just be the belt-&-suspenders type and do both.
David Weatherston
"Towser"
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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While David is right in his post about removing the chainplates, digging out the balsa & filling with thickened epoxy, do NOT use 3M 5200! 5200 is an adhesive as well as a sealer. It is virtually permanent, and VERY difficult to remove. You will even need Anti-Bond (a special solvent) to get it off. Rather than a polyurethane sealant, go with a polysulfied (like 3M 101 or other standard polysulfides). They have nearly the same lifespan, and can be removed much easier.
Fair Winds,
Bruce, C&C 27 MKIII, "Moonstruck" - Chicago
> 5200 is an adhesive as well as a sealer. It is virtually permanent, and VERY difficult to remove. You will even need Anti-Bond (a special solvent) to get it off.
Not in my experience. Acetone cuts through like a knife.
Neither polysuphide nor 5200 last very long once opened and I generally only use half a tube of goop per season. At $14 or $15 a tube, there's a limit to how many I want to throw out. Accordingly, I've standardized on 5200 (without any compelling reason for wanting the adhesive properties). Habit more than anything. Sikaflex is nice, too.
David Weatherston
"Towser", Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Last edited by (2003-06-17 23:33:24)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Offline
I don't have a C&C but I do have a Kirby 25 and the most effective thing I have found to seal leaks is Butyl Tape. This is a material that C&C used to seal the hull deck joint. It always stays flexible and is better than silicon. You can find it in better hardware stores and is used to seal residential windows into the frames. It comes in strips rolled with brown paper backing. Break off a piece and roll it between your fingers to shoestring size and use it on the deck side. It is also used after rebedding deck fittings. For a more detailed description, go to <A href="http://www.nsc.ca">www.nsc.ca</A> Library TechTalk April 2002
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