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Does anyone have any tips for removing VC Tar. I thought that a heat gun or even a tourch might help.
Dave Green
"Bart" MKII #245
A heat gun or torch might also help destroy your hull laminate.
I had the failing VC Tar removed from my boat by sandblasting. There is also an environmentally friendly product called Peel Away that I nearly used. You'll find a long discussion of this topic at 'Bottom Blasting' (use the Search function for the thread name or search 'vc tar').
If you don't like any of those alternatives, try calling the support line at Interlux - they're very helpful.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Last edited by (2007-02-25 03:02:54)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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The technique recommended to me by Nick Bailey of Bristol Marine was to use a Random Orbital Sander, starting with 40-grit disks and progressing to 80-grit, which sets up the hull for Interprotect. Try to be careful about not sanding all of the way through the gelcoat.
It is a painful, filthy job. Make sure to wear eye protection, a coverall and a really good filter mask. Dragoon your friends into helping you. You may need to make new friends after you are finished. However, is quite doable. Good Luck!
Marcus
Before starting either method, you'd better check with your Club or Marina grounds rules as many places have banned this sort of work as it can create alot of mess for your neighbours. At our club, jobs like this are done in a restricted area and/or only by a professional under controlled circumstances.
Good luck-Larry
I don't want to sound like I've got a franchise for Peel Away, but since Larry has raised the issue - the environmental issue is one of the great advantages of the Peel Away product. All the stripped material ends up bonded to the peelable material (I think it's paper but not sure), that you just roll up and deposit in the trash or toxic materials bin, depending on how 'green' your club is. Therefore, you don't coat your surroundings or neighbours in toxic material.
The other advantage is that you don't end up wearing this material yourself. Someone at my club sanded down a large boat over the course of about 5 days -- he must have taken 15 lb of red lead and copper off its bottom. A lot of us didn't know whether to be annoyed with him because this stuff had blown all over the place or just go over and shoot the poor guy right away to curtail his obvious misery.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Last edited by (2007-02-26 00:35:13)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Offline
Thanks All for the advise!
The yard has quoted me $1000 US to Sodablast the bottom. While this is the easiest option, I was planning on taking a week off of work to rework the bottom myself. Do you think 1 man can strip and repaint the bottom in 7 days? I can't imagine it would take longer, but I've never done this work before.
Dave Green
"Bart" MKII #245
The time you take depends on what you mean by "rework". I've covered this in "Bottom Blasting" but I'll precis with an emphasis on the time element.
Since you've never done this before (I have, and I do not believe that anyone should experience the misery of stripping a boat by sanding), I'd suggest you either accept the yard's offer at $1,000 or the Peel Away option at about C$300. If you let the yard do it, you'll just show up and paint the bottom. The Peel Away option should take about a day, depending on temperature. (There are a lot of accounts of using this stuff on the Web - Google for them -- one is at http://www.geocities.com/bill_dietrich/BoatPainting.html . There is still a review of bottom strippers on Practical Sailor, Sept. 2000.)
I assume you are going to replace the barrier coat on the bottom. (Which reminds me, we've never discussed why you want to take the existing VC-Tar off -- is it failing over the whole bottom or is there another compelling reason?)
I used Interprotect, which requires 6 coats. You can put on these on without sanding between coats if you put another coat on before the previous is fully set. I think that's about 8-10 hours, so I was able to do a coat, go to work, then put on a second coat in the evening before going home. That took parts of three days. On a fourth day, I lightly sanded the Interprotect and rolled on a couple of coats of VC-17. Done.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Last edited by (2007-02-28 06:32:57)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Offline
DGreen:
While the cost of $1000.00 may sound high, I'd sure give it a good think through. Several years ago I had to strip the VCTar off my 24' northern 1/4 Ton. A much smaller boat than the 27,I used the orbital sander method and it's a backbreaking, dirty, time consuming job. Be prepared to have a large supply of sanding discs and I do me and a large supply. VCTar is an epoxy base tar (it's gummy) it loads up the discs very quickly and as soon as they start to load up the friction just mushes the surface you are trying to sand making it even tougher to sand. Be prepared to put down drop cloths and shrouding around you work space to that the dust and residue can be contained. Picture your self laying on your back or standing with your arms extended over your head for hours on end. Believe me by the time your done $2,000.00 will sound cheap. I'm not sure how the peel and strip that Dave talks about works, it may do a good job but VCTar is pretty impervious, it's meant to be that way. After having stripped my old boat I would never ever recommend VCTar to anybody, Interprotect is the only way to go. One caution though is to make sure you follow the application instructions from the manufactures to the letter, read up on the method of application in Interlux's manual or off their web site. You must use the correct roller to apply the stuff and if you want a smooth bottom when you are done you will need to "tip off" after you roll an area, otherwise you will end up with a rough orange peel surface which you will then have to sand smooth before applying your final bottom paint.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working Mk V #75
[Callng an un-tipped Interprotect finish an orange-peel finish is understatement. The waves and troughs of a simple roller finish can represent at least 1/3 of the total thickness. Since protection is a function of average thickness and perhaps thinnest thickness, it makes sense to roll and tip the material to get a uniformly thick finish, even if you don't care about having a smooth racing bottom. Moreover, if you sand, you're not only removing your expensive, just-applied protection, you're running the risk of sanding through your expensive, just-applied protection, which means you're looking at another six coats to patch your mistake. - Admin]
Last edited by (2007-03-01 05:43:51)
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt">y: Arial">David,
Thanks for the advice! I’ll try the Peel Away option. I’m tired of hearing the service dept. say “that old thing?” every time I ask for a quote. The reason for all of this is because the VC Tar is peeling in places. I’ll be replacing the barrier coat as well.
I apologize for asking questions that so many have asked before!</SPAN>
Dave Green
"Bart" MKII #245
If you feel up to it, photos and a description of the process might make a good addition to Black Arts.
- Admin
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