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Next spring I plan on redoing the interior teak floor. I'm assuming that a good quality varathane will do the job. Any suggestions?
Apple
Hull 985
Kenora, Ontario
I had to replace the wood floor on Towser. I sealed both sides with penetrating epoxy (vile stuff). Once the floor was down, I finished the upper side with a Minwax floor urethane. The urethane is harder than the epoxy and provides UV protection.
Be careful sanding – the teak-and-holly veneer is paper-thin.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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I had assumed that the production run for the 27 series ended at 984. Itsn't that interesting that you have 985....MURR
I too am refinishing the floor on my 1987 Mk V. Did you or would you use a paint stipper before sanding? And I was just going to use urathane, no epoxy. Thoughts on that?
Barry
Barry:
If I were refinishing, I think I would try to lift the old finish with stripper and a cabinet scraper - anything to reduce the risk of sanding through the veneer. Pull out the bilge cover and you'll see how thin it is. If you're using "normal" (as opposed to fibreglass-safe) stripper, put something on the surrounding gelcoat surfaces to protect them.
The only reason I used epoxy is because I was replacing the original wood floor. I felt it was imperative to seal the underside thoroughly and the supplier suggested that it would be better to do both to stabilize the wood. I don't think I would bother with epoxy if just refinishing.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
PS I didn't use stain.
Last edited by (2006-10-26 06:37:51)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Thanks for the advice.
In my boat it was a very easy task to take up all the floor boards and bring them home to refinish in my warm shop over the winter. Last question - did you stain the teak and holly plywood before refinshing? I did not plan to do so as I thought it would darken the holly too much, and teak with urathane should come out quite nice. Hoping the holly does too. If my spec sheet is right, it was just varnished originally.
Barry
OOOPS
Memories not what it used to be. Make that Hull # 969
Thanks all for the comments
Some purists might sniff but you should seriously check out the faux teak-and-holly at <A href="http://www.lonsealspecialty.com">http://www.lonsealspecialty.com</A>. Seven of us have pooled our resources to buy a roll of the stuff with a view to installing it on our gel-coated cabin soles. Buying it in a 60-foot roll reduces the cost to US$30 a square yard, which means a C&C27 installation, including shipping and PST/GST, is about CAD200, exclusive of epoxy adhesive and edge sealant. No wood and virtually no loss of the already limited head room!
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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Again, Ken, some purists might sniff but I made a 'faux' teak and holly sole for my cabin with a 4' X 8' piece of mahogany plywood 1/8" thick , some 1/4" masking tape, a bit of stain and West System 105 Epoxy (with 207 hardener).
Starting from scratch, make a cardboard pattern by taping pieces of cardboard together on the cabin sole to fit the floor contours exactly. Cut the plywood, sand it and then tape with 1/4" painters' masking tape every 2" . Stain to desired shade, peel off the tape to reveal your simulated Holly strips and cut out the opening for the bilge access. Coat your new floor with the epoxy ( a couple of coats-- and do both sides and all edges to totally encapsulate the plywood (it won't be marine grade that you're able to buy).
Drill oversized holes for the hold-down screws at the appropriate spots to pull the flooring into contact with the sole. Coat the inside edges of the screw holes with epoxy to seal the ply. grain there then fasten the floor down. As Dave W. has pointed out, a coat of Varnish on top of the epoxy will provide U.V. protection.
The Black Arts section has a piece on Aragorn's modified cabin layout-- this floor can be seen there.
Clare Jordan
One of the neatest solutions to the cabin sole issue that I've seen was on a Mk II with the bare gelcoated sole with a non-skid pattern. The owners, however, had a nice little oriental runner that they laid down in port. The best of both worlds.
The current standard "teak-&-holly" sole is something of a travesty, being pretty but a skating rink when wet or mucky. (I know whereof I speak - I was in major pain for about a week after an overnight race, during which I slipped on the varnished cabin sole of a 34 owing to the presence of a slurry of water and crushed potato chips.) Originally, real teak-&-holly was made with the harder holly standing 1/16" proud of the surface and only the teak varnished, making an attractive but effective non-skid.
I thought of this when doing my sole, which had been destroyed by the previous owner - gouged then sanded through in a number of places. I contemplated not replacing it after I took it up, mostly for the sake of the non-skid qualities, but I figured that it would be as much work to deal with all the screw holes as to replace it, plus I'd have to find a runner, and I hate shopping for carpet.
I also don't like the way that water pools between the wood and the fibreglass - all you need is about half a cup and it's squelch, squelch, squelch until the stuff evaporates.
The solution I adopted when replacing my sole was to stop the wood at the "door" to the galley. The rectangle represented by the galley is now floored with Dri-deck or whatever it's called - the ribbed material that's normally sold to floor your cockpit. (I also made holes under the companion steps to drain water away to the bilge). Fortuitously, this material is the same thickness as the "teak-&-holly" ply. Stopping the wood at this point also allowed me to replace the sole without having to remove the teak trim on the settees.
What we now have is a not unreasonable compromise. The galley is totally non-skid, so you can stand there with some security. The settee area is a potential skating rink, but we seldom walk around there when sailing (and when someone is on the way to the head, they can hang on). And of course, there's no squelching.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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