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OK, I think I've read what I can, including West System's site and what I could find in Epoxyworks.
Writing in regard to a '71 Mark I. I began the search for a licensed surveyor today but still would like to know more about the issue. What I still am not clear on is:
Is the bulkhead's cross section essentially the same as that of the deck: i.e., balsa sandwiched between two layers of glass?
Is the wood finishing on the aft side of the bulkhead solely ornamental?
There are no backing plates for the chainplate nuts. Needed? Recommended? If large washers will do, how large?
The present nuts and washers make small indents in what appears to be a reinforcing rectangle of unfinished glass on the fore side of the bulkhead; the wood on the aft side is slightly indented but intact. Normal? (There's no evidence that I can see that the bolt holes have enlarged on either side and no cracks in the finished wood.)
Can one see damage to the portion of the bulkhead above the chainplate bolt holes after removing cover plates +/- chainplates? If not, how does on make that determination?
Last, hopefully: I am thinking one can work on chainplates one side at a time without unstepping the mast. Am I correct in that? And, if so, what are the safest ways of securing the mast on the side that will be loosened/removed? Can stanchion bases (assuming intact and I think mine are) be used in conjunction with halyards to stabilize mast?
Thanks
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The bulkhead is marine ply with a very thin teak veneer.
There should be washers between the wood and the nuts; backing plates don't appear to have been needed. On my boat, they are simply the standard size for that diameter of bolt. It sounds as though your bolts have been a bit over-tightened. They should be tight, but not so tight that the wood is distorted.
You can have a look at your chainplate mounting-bolt holes to ensure that they're not elongated, but I wouldn't be too concerned. The major fear is that the deck has leaked where the chainplates pierce the deck and that entering water has caused rot. However, this will usually cause some staining or discoloration. If there's no discoloration or other sign of water entry, I'd leave it until you're ready to pull the chainplates and epoxy the surrounding cavity in the deck.
I would use the toe rail as anchor points for the halyards as it is much more securely fastened to the hull than stanchion bases. Incidentally, the inboard mounting holes of the bronze bases are notoriously points for water entry into the core - seal them with epoxy.
As a general note - don't try to do all this stuff in one day, week or even year - the boat has gotten this far without these fixes and while it's nice to get lots done while you're on a roll, it's important to get some sailing time in too, so you can bond with your new boat. Some jobs that you feel you must do will go away as others come to the fore. Meanwhile it's important not to get so mired in projects that you can't sail and end up browned off at your boat.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Appreciate the comprehensive reply and the very appropriate advice about sailing more, worrying less. The problem is that this boat was in the water and unattended for five years, so I wnat just to make sure that the mast doesn't come down on a windy day and that the through the hulls are as safe as I can get them. Hard to enjoy sailing when not sure that the boat is sound.
>ill usually cause some staining or discoloration<
If you mean that water entry would discolor the bulkhead, that has happened. And the veneer was wet on the port side after the last big rain Saturday-- part of that veneer inboard and above the chainplates is somewhat warped. I don't know if you read my original post when I mentioned that there was moss growing between the port cover plate and the deck. Yeah, it's been wet. How the bulkhead has fared is still unknown. It taps out ok but. . . . That's why I'm trying to get a surveyor and/or a fiberglass guy.
There is also a small (6-8") area of what I believe is early delamination of the deck on the starboard side (the side that appears drier inside). That area is forward and outboard of where the chainplate enters the deck. The area around the chainplate seems firm. The outboard, forward screw for that starboard cover plate is missing (just noted that yesterday) and I assume it's been missing for quite a while. Might account for the deck issue.
I do not believe the chainplate bolt holes have elongated.
So, It seems that I might have some worrying and work to do no matter how much I'd like to get in the maiden sail.
The stanchion bases actually look and tap ok, at least to my eye and ear but I hadn't even visualized the toe rail for anchor points. A-duh. Not used to having that kind of toe rail and it didn't even show up in my mental picture as I tried to work the issue out at home. And I was trying to think of the most outboard achor points, too. Oh, well.
Once again, David, I really appreciate the help and perspective.
Steve
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