This Forum is supported by C&C 27 owners like you whose membership in the C&C 27 Association makes possible this Forum and the accompanying site. Thank you, members, for your continuing commitment.
You are not logged in.
Pages: 1
Considering buying a 1971 27. Has had water in the cabin-- possible damage to the atomic 4. Wondering what my options are if the motor isn't functional. Is it possible/reasonable to consider putting a bracket on the transom and using an outboard? If so, any recommendations about brackets, size of outboard? I know this is an unaesthetic question but would appreciate any advice. Also, any info on approx. cost of replacing an engine.
Thanks
Steve Lowy
Offline
It is possible, however it will adversley effect the value of your boat. If I were in your shoes, I would consider the same thing. However if the boat were in good enough shape, I would consider an engine replacement. I would expect the replacement cost to be between 5 and 10K. The former being for a replacement Atomic 4 and the latter; a new diesel.
Greg Reese
Billerina
Mark1 #33
[10K is high for a new diesel. See the Black Arts article on Hyperion's new engine. Towser's engine cost was similar. Add a two or three hundred for a new exhaust line, then your choice of new prop. - Admin]
Last edited by (2006-05-04 00:25:20)
You may want to do a search on "outboards". This was an issue about a year or so ago. Personally, I love my MK II updated with a Yanmar and will not put an outboard on anything but a dingy. My friend 'Tropical' Warren here on Galveston Bay loves his MKI with a Yahama outboard and has a some pretty good arguments for it.
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Offline
For the sake of peace of mind, take the atomic four out of the boat and rebuild it yourself. It is not rocket science. If you do not want to do the job yourself, then trade it in on a short block upgrade from Dom Moyer... you can have a "new" engine for very little money. The A4 is a great little engine and will last a very long time with basic maintenance. Then you can spend all of your saved money on new sails.
My 2cents worth.
"IRIS"
1975 C&C 27 MKlll
Hull No 453
Kittery Point, Maine
Still have the original engine with updated ignition and other features.
I have some pictures of someones outboard bracket, give my email if you want to see them.
My mk 111 came with a 7.5 hp long shaft----in addition to a fine running A4. The 7.5 lived on the stern rail and was rarely used to push the dink. Once or twice it got relocated on the o.b. bracket when the Atomic got uncooperative. The 7.5 was more than enough to push the boat at hull speed under kindly sea conditions. From a practical standpoint this all worked well----however----one evening I was just sitting on the dock enjoying the asthetics of the 27 and decided that the o.b. was far too ugly to live there any longer.Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
With all due respect to the Admin's comments, I believe in the end, my price range was conservative. I had a severe bout of engine failure while on my way to winter hauling the season before last. I had a marine surveyor on board with me and after our experience on this given day he recommended swapping out the motor which I was open to. I checked Moyer Marine to do a rebuild of my existing A4. This was about 4K. this did not include the man hours and crane (twice; once out and once in) to complete the swap. I also checked into a new diesel. This I found about 50% more expensive. I thought this was the way to go because it was new and a diesel until one considered the refit expenses associated and the man hours and crane. All and all, the bottom line was pretty ugly. In the end, I just worked on my motor which in the end cost me about $500 in repairs. Let's face facts here, if I used 3 gallons of gasoline last year, I would be surprised. Mostly, I just started the motor for the sake of starting it. Isn't that what SAILING is all about. However, when you need it....you really need it.
Greg Reese
Billerina, Mark 1 #33
To hang a transom mount for an outboard you have reinforce the transom from the inside. The transom is just balsa core and 2 thin skins of glass so the thing will likley flex like an old oil can when the engine is down and running. A piece of 3/4 ply with vertical tablesaw rips that will permit the ply to curve into the transom will work provided it is well glassed in. It will be an easy job if you can fine some who is less that 4 feet tall or someone who is missing both legs. I'd repair/replace the atomic bomb.
One of the difficulties of talking about costs of maintenance and repairs, as I've noted on the page on buying a 27 in Black Arts, is that prices can vary widely - even outrageously - for the same job. I have every confidence that some shop would have extracted US$10K from Greg for a new diesel, but I have equal confidence that such a price is at the high end of the range, particularly for a drop-in replacement.
First, there are a couple of issues that need to be clarified when we talk about a job like this. One is money, or more accurately, currency. If I say my engine cost C$7,500, US readers have to understand that as approximately US$6,400. When Greg says US$10K, I see C$11,100, about 40% more than either Ralph Ainslie or I paid. Which rather reinforces my point. Then there is the issue of owner work. Ralph did almost 100% of the work on Hyperion, whereas I did a fair bit of work but more like 40%. Greg sounds like he'd be happy getting his hands dirty, too, but then his yard might limit his contribution. This is probably where most of the discrepancy lies.
All in all, though, I'll stand by the comment, and it's not meant to disparage Greg or the people with whom he was dealing - $10K (US or C) is high for a diesel and that assertion is based on replacing an A4 with a Yanmar last spring, so I am speaking from recent invoices, not estimates or conjecture.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Offline
"The transom is just balsa core and 2 thin skins of glass "
Hmm, I've been planning to punch a few holes for a stern boarding ladder. No I have to plan for a drill-fill-drill procedure?
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Offline
I pulled the malfunctioning A-4 from my 1975 Mark III last winter after haulout and did most of the rebuild myself. The only work I jobbed out was the stripped block to a local automotive shop which checked bearings, piston bores, etc. All were pronounced bang on factory spec. I let them do the block rebuild but did everthing else. I hadn't done anything like since I rebuilt my 1957 TR3 engine in the mid-60s but the A-4 turned out to be simpler due to the single carburettor, etc. I purchased a complete gasket set from Moyer. You can check out the results on Moyer's website; the engine is the April pinup. If you did go this route, I highly recommend Moyer's A-4 manual and would expect that you do the whole thing in a week if you can spare the time and find a cooperative shop.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
[Ken has agreed to detail this experience for Black Arts. Look for this - with pics - mid-summer. - Admin]
Last edited by (2006-05-09 03:53:33)
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
Offline
Pages: 1