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I'm planning on installing a tiller autopilot, probably an Autohelm,
on my 1975 CC27 MkIII. Has anyone already been through this?
The complicating factor is the inboard tiller location and curved
handle. Any advice (other than "get a wheel") would be appreciated...
Autohelm used to sell an aluminum bracket shaped like a flattened Z (like this: -\_, except the left hyphen should be at the top, not in the middle). With the bottom leg bent a bit to match the slope of the 27's tiller, it worked nicely to raise the connection point so the Autohelm would sit level (which it has to do). I looked in Raymarine's online catalogue, but it doesn't currently appear (which doesn't mean in doesn't exist). Any marine metal shop could make one from 1" x 3/16" or 1/4" stock.
The previous owner had installed the bracket permanently but I didn't want that because it's a real sheet-catcher so I mounted it with wing nuts. I also moulded a "saddle" from epoxy on the mounting face of the bracket, to make the shape of the bracket's base match the shape of the tiller. This makes the bracket secure and wobble-free without having to reef the nuts up so tight that the finish of the tiller would be damaged.
Someone was asking earlier if it's possible to mount a tiller pilot in such a way that the starboard cockpit locker can still be opened. I don't think that's possible.
David Weatherston
"Towser"
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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As previously noted, the bracket can be a pain. I mounted the connection pin directly into the tiller, protruding only about 1/2". When using the autohelm, I place a wooden shim in the fitting where the tiller connects to the rudder post to raise the tiller to the required height to keep the autohelm level. The weight of the tiller keeps the shim in place.
I found a neat way to shim up the tiller. If you search through a collection of allen keys, you will find a suitable large key that can serve as a nice shim under the tiller to rudder post area. The allen key works well as it has a hexagonal cross section which keeps it nicely in place. I then used a piece of shock cord tied in a loop to keep the allen key tightly secured under the tiller. If you orient the L shape of the allen key with the L base facing starboard, you can loop the shockcord around the bottom and back around the post to the other end of the key. It also pushes the tiller up and makes it more easier to handle if you are on a long cruise (e.g. sitting back and steering with your toes on the tiller!). This solution avoids a nasty bracket. If you are installing a new tiller autopilot, you may wish to use this technique to get the tiller to the right angle to get the measurements correctly in place for the tiller autopilot pin. It was a tremendous hassle when I did it, and I only figured out the allen key solution afterwards, after jamming a pencil in (also hexagonal) and dawning on the solution.
Just a note to thank you for your help. I did (am) using the allen key solution, and it was a breeze installing the autotiller (Simrad w/remote). A note to everyone else as well, that I've learned so much about my boat just "listening" to all the problems and great solutions that are posted on this forum. Thanks..
Gord Richardson - Aurora, 1975 MKIII
Hi,
I have a Mark I and sail out of Campbell River, BC. I'm hoping to install a tiller pilot this spring and wandered if anyone had a preference to the Raymarine or Simard TPs.
I would appreciate comments or even better pictures of any installations.
Dave
I managed to get out on the bay and test my Autohelm 800 (now discontinued) this last weekend. I'm very happy with the performance and the only question that remains is if there is enough travel in the arm to handle the tiller in all cases. With that said the arm is installed on the starboard seat and allows clearance for opening the hatch. I'll take some photos next weekend and send them to you. My email is 'sv windhorse at yahoo dt com' (removes spaces add punctuation, yada, yada).
The previous owner of my boat also sailed solo and used this autopilot alot. Raymarine replaced it with the ST1000. It is several years old but it looks and works like new.
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Offline
Hi folks
while the discussion about tiller pilot centred on the tiller end of the installation, I would like to hear how people installed the 'business end' of the tiller pilot. In particular where you mounted it. There isn't a lot of room on the gunwale so I'm curious to know if you installed it on the cockpit locker lid and how that works.
Jim
Jim,
The mounting sockets on Wind Horse are placed on the starboard cockpit seat with just enough room to open the hatch. The mounting sockets are sealed with caulking which is beginning to leak so I plan to remove the original installation and add a 1/2 marine plywood backing to the area under the cockpit seat to limit socket twisting. The previous two owners used the autopilot in this configuration and there is no sign of cracking or crazing. There were two sockets installed but only one is ever used so I plan on removing the spare. This installation does not appear to match the installation instructions for distance between the rudderstock centerline to tiller pin but it does function well.
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
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