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Now that I have my main on the coach roof (and the twin sheet system is great!), I will next move to running all lines to the cockpit.
I would like to know what experiences others have had with deck organizers and rope clutches or cam cleats in this usage. Also, I am planning to move the two small cockpit winches to the coach roof if need be, since the only spinnaker I might fly would be an asymetrical.
By the way, I will eventually send in some pictures on the twin main system but will answer questions anytime. I have sailed a lot of boats in over 40 years of sailing, and if had the choice again knowing what I know now, I would make the same decision (twin main) with no hesitation.
Warren Smith (AKA Tropical Warren)
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
When I bought my boat, it had worn-out first-generation deck organizers and rope clutches that I replaced. Also, the original owner had installed the organizers so that the lines made a 90-degree turn, which put an unnecessary load on the whole structure.
Replacement deck organizers are Harken 4-sheave small-boat organizers mounted to minimize the halyards' turning angle. The organizers are oriented to bisect the turn angle and are mounted on Starboard (a zero-maintenance rigid white plastic that can be worked with a table saw, router and plane) shaped to conform to the curve of the coach-roof.
Replacement rope clutches are Spinlock doubles. These are wide enough to require shaped Starboard pads under them to conform to the coach-roof curve but are compact. These hold the main, genoa and spinnaker halyards, and vang. Cam cleats hold the outhaul and Cunningham. I'll probably put another Spinlock single on for single-line reefing.
The boat originally had absurd little winches on the coach-roof. I bought new primaries and moved the old primaries up to the coach-roof for halyards and spinnaker sheets. Seems to work.
The one caveat in all this is that you have to keep an eye on the bedding of the rope clutches. The loads on them are high and they're loaded and unloaded fairly frequently - a perfect recipe for breaking the seal. I've had the bedding under one rope clutch break down, causing a mystery leak until we realized the source. Mind you, that's one breakdown in six years - hardly a high-maintenance issue.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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David,
Thank you for the information, very helpful!
I was thinking the same thing about winches, except I plan to move one smaller cockpit winch (primary?) to the port coach roof to replace that little absurd one, and use only the larger winches in the cockpit. I will go to an asymmetrical spinaker and use jib winches when I fly it - so I would rather have the space than extra winches in the cockpit.
As for lines to the cockpit I plan on the main halyard, 1st reef, & topping lift on port side with clutches; and lazy jack, spin halyard, spin tack, and staysail halyard on stb side - may use cam cleats due to low load and/or infrequent use (&cost). (I don't race and spinnaker is for light air only). Since I have roller furling, I'll leave the jib halyard to the mast. When I use the staysail I will cleat to side after cross winching if necessary - it's really low-load. Actually, I usually head-up and trim rather than winch anyway. With twin mains they serve as vang and preventer also and cleat separately.
Also, I found a great way to mount hardware on the curved deck. Mix epoxy with thickner, add graphite (amazingly small amount will work) and fit hardward on the deck with your black "peanutbutter" epoxy sandwiched between wax paper sheets. After it hardens, trim with dremel, sander, etc., and you have a perfect-fit black plastic base. Be sure to bevel and slightly oversize the holes for your sealant - that's the actual seal - not between the "flat" surfaces (it's best to squeeze out excess sealant on tightening). Even if you have a fitted base, this stand-off will give you a more reliable non-leak seal because it does not move.
Warren Smith (AKA Tropical Warren)
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
I don't think you need to put a topping lift on a clutch. A high-load cam cleat is more than sufficient. We have the genoa halyard in the cockpit to play the tension under sail, but also to dump tension when the boat is not sailing - much kinder to the sail.
I used the epoxy trick you mention ages ago, but unaccountably had forgotten about it when I re-equipped our present boat. It works well, but I disagree about movement. With any sort of load, everything and anything will move (scientists have been lax in exploring marine hardware tectonics, one of the universe's little-understood constants).
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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David,
Thanks for your comments. You are right about the topping lift - I just want it on the same side as the halyard and a separate cam cleat may not look real neat. As for the "movement" of the piece I won't debate, but the point I think is important is getting the seal. The mating surfaces don't do the trick, you need sealant around the fastener sealing to the opening which invites the leak. Countersinking the holes is a good way to accomplish this.
Warren Smith (AKA Tropical Warren)
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
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