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I have a few soft spots in my 1973 C&C 27. I was wondering what I can do, preferably inexpensive, to help with these areas. Do I need to go as far as cutting out these sections, re-filling and then cover with a gel coat? Is there any simple solutions to this dilemma?
Paul
The soft spots would indicate that the core in these areas is rotten and should be replaced which would entail filling,fairing and cosmetics. I had a similiar problem 5 years ago with 2 small areas. Rather than trying to match the non-skid gel coat which had lost most of it's non skid qualities, I covered the entire non-skid with a 2 part poly/rubber grit finish. It not only looks great, it has stood up very well over these years. It does take time in preparation, masking and following the original outline, but the results are impressive. FYI, a letter published in "BoatWorks" by Rob Mazza comments that wet core (balsa) does not present the problem previously thought and gives reasons for this conclusion, too long to include in this message.
Bob Honsberger "Budge" Mk.2
Burlington
How long did it take to cover the entire non-skid? Does it make the non non-skid look really dingy in comparison?
Horace Henderson
76 MKIII Hull 665 - Newport RI
I used a two part coating polyurethane which contained shredded rubber particles in suspension. I used a light grey colour which made a very nice contrast to the "smooth' gel coat of the cabin top/sides etc. This product is similiar to that used in pick-up truck boxes. Durable, and in my opinion, better looking than the original. As far as time is concerned, the major effort is centered on prep time and in particular, masking and following the rounded radius at each corner. Painting time is minimal, perhaps a couple of hours.I purchased my product from a Canadian company, but I do believe a similar product is available from US company <A href="http://www.durabak.com">www.durabak.com</A> as advertised in "Good Old Boat" magazine.
Bob Honsberger
Burlington Ontario "Budge" Mk.2
Did you only put the non skid rubber application over the soft spots or did you first have to cut out the soft areas, remove the rott, and then fill and re-glass and coat with the non skid rubber urethane ? I have a simular situation and I too am looking for a "easy way out" fix for the soft spot problem.
Bob, Would it be possible for you to post the Brand name of the non-skid you used?
Ralph Ainslie
"Hyperion"
When I read your post, I was considering for aesthetics, more than anything else - I looked at the durabak light grey - it looks to dark. if you have a pic of the comparison between the skid and non-skid could you post it so I can get a feel if I would like to use grey or white? If not, I could paint something else and lay it on the deck. Thanks.
Horace Henderson
76 MKIII Hull 665 - Newport RI
Last edited by (2005-06-09 23:59:10)
All soft (rotten ) spots must be excavated and replaced with new core if you want a sound repair. Filling and fairing these repaired areas so that they would be cosmetically indiscernible after the application of the non-skid coating. Since the original non-skid had lost most of it's properties, I coated all of it. There is no "easy way out" fix if you want it done correctly. The coating material I used is made by <A href="http://www.polycoatings.com/page4.html">Polycoatings</A> product # M22UV.
Within the next few days. I will take a photo of the work I did 5 years ago and e-mail it to those who may be interested.
Bob Honsberger|
Burlington Ontario " Budge" Mk.2
Last edited by (2005-06-10 01:35:56)
Another consideration is treadmaster.
After rebuilding the decks on a Carver Mariner, and trying all of the various methods for fixing soft cores, about the only way that works with longterm positive results is to remove the core and replace it. Depending on the the location you may be able to get at it from the inside but on our 27s that is only possible in the cockpit and the forepeak. In the boats I have seen drill and fill has always failed in every application where it has been attempted.
I'm about to do the similar work on Puda Vida and plan to use Treadmaster as a to cover my deck at the bow. While it is not skin friendly (barefoot) you really get good traction and on the deck a little added protection from the anchor, chain, spinnaker pole, etc. If you do decide to give treadmaster a look consider finding a boat in your marina that has treadmaster and a skipper who will let you sail with him for a day, just to get a feel for it. A lot of people just don't like it as much as paint on nonskid.
Mike M
SV Pura Vida
#375
Galveston Bay
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
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A couple of thoughts on the durabek (sp) non skid. My mk3 was "all white"---and Florida is not the place for white decks. I needed to resurface most of the non-skid areas anyway---including the cockpit. I'm an old guy and have used a bunch of nonskid products over the years--including silica sand in the big salt shaker, etc. The rubber based stuff (in good old boat) looked interesting---I bought a quart of the grey---applied it to the cockpit/combing area. It was too dark for my liking---and the surface was very, very aggressive----not comfortable. I ened up sanding it down and recoating with Interlux Brightside (one part) with the nonskid "powder" added. The color was acceptable----as was the non-skid---and much cheaper than the rubber stuff----I'm available at 239-694-4042 for detailsDave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
Re: Treadmaster. Absolutely the best!!! Pricey---but lasts for years---Looks great!! Hard on unseason bare feet. West System puts it down to stay!! Cut your own patterns----Good stuff---but big bucks.Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
Photos and a description of the work done on Budge are now available in Black Arts..
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Nice job Bob---in black arts section. I already posted my feelings on the DURABEK coating---but an additional note on cutting the radius during taping. Home Depot now carries "corners" made from masking tape. There are a variety of sizes and shapes----and the guy in the paint dept doesnt even know he has them. You still need to do a bit of work with the "exacto" knife----but it beats trying to turn the corner the old fashioned way.Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
Impressive! I'm hoping that my fix turns out as well.
Mike M
SV Pura Vida
#375
Galveston Bay
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
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