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What a Pain!
Just replaced my depth transducer today.
Something I assumed would be a 30 minute job.
Well 4 hours later I'm hammering and chiseling away at the thing trying to break it out. Looks like they had used 3M 5200 sealant (adhesive?) to bed it in place. What a mess.
After finally tearing the old one out, I slid the new one in using 3M 4200 - hope it doesn't leak (find out tomorrow) when we drop her in.
My sympathy . . . but I would NEVER again use a thru-hull transduced.
On my current boat (C&C27 MKI) I installed an interior transducer - and it works fantastic. To insure good placement, select a good location and test it with transducer submerged in a ziplock full of water - placing on the hull to make sure you have a solid placement - no internal voids in the FRP. Sand/clean the hull, place a ball of epoxy, and press it on in a level orientation. Most shipyards will now advise this over thru-hull transducers.
I don't care to have any more holes in my boat than I have to.
Warren Smith (AKA Tropical Warren)
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
A couple of additional thoughts on "in hull" vs "thru hull" Xducers. The basic idea is that the signal (both outgoing and return) needs a solid medium (sans voids, bubbles, etc) to operate properly. As Warren mentioned the ziplock bag full of water, gin, mineral oil, or diet soda generally lets you select a spot in the hull that has no voids in the laminate (gee whizzz voids in a C/C hull????) Since our boats are pretty slippery going thru the water we need not be concerned about the "irregular" water flows found in high speed/power boats. In some cases we determine the best place for the Xducer while underway. In any case, I never use epoxy to to fix its final resting place. We use a "gob" of silicone from Home Depot----the size of a golf ball (or baseball) . "Smutch" the Xducer in it to make sure there are no bubbles in the mess. Come back tomorrow. Epoxy makes a lifetime committment. Silicone gives you a chance to replace, move, etc. 5200 is not in my tool box---anymore!!!!! Best,Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
Dave,
Good comments there, however I was advised against the silicone as it is difficult to produce a "glob" that does not have air bubbles.
Now here's the shocker - when I asked the yard manager about the "what if?". His answer was - "a sharp well placed blow with a chisel will shatter it". I thought he was nuts - till he did a demo. Admitted - it took some guts but I went along. Fortunately, it seems to work very well as placed.
On next haul the the little "paddle wheel thingy" next door will be extricated and hole glassed over. With a GPS and manual backup I see no reason to endure a worthless hole in the boat. That will be four of nine so far!
Warren Smith (AKA Tropical Warren)
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
So after the hassle of replacing the transducer I swith on the display and it still reads "- -". Anyone know if there's a way to get it to work - the display seems to be functioning fine - just doesn't show the depth.
I assumed the transducer was the faulty component since the previous owner had bought it and intended to replace it.
Some things to check after replacing a Xducer:
1) Obviously the connections---many use spade connections---which are problematic in the marine environment.
2) Continuity in the Xducer. (set your meter to "OHMS" touch the leads to the shield and the inner wire.
3) Check the "Gain controll on the back of the head.
4) Make sure the Xducer is compatable with the head--ie; there are a wide variety frequencies--commonly 50?hertz for deep water stuff and 200?hertz for shallower applications. However, you'll find the stuff that Walmart carries sometimes uses oddball frequencies like 137?hertz. These are, of course, proprietary to whom ever produced the unit---usually in some small province 50k south of Bejing.----Best,Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
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