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I am looking for advise on making my 1987 Shaol Draft C&C 27 MKV, go as fast and point as high as she will go. I raced several years aboard a C&C 30 shoal draft and it did very well, so I am thinking I may be able to get my shoal draft moving and pointing within a few degrees of the competition, if I deal with most of the other issues. The Shoal Draft 27 was originally not set up for spinaker and has a roller furling jib. I have measured the rig and it is the same height as full keel MKV 27s.
I have added a topping lift, downhaul, 4:1 backstay adjuster (old main sheet), 6:1 mainsheet, 3:1 adjustable traveler, replaced the halyard, purchased a used spinaker and used mylar genoa, replaced the knot meter, a handheld GPS, a Handheld VHF and installed a spinlock tiller extension .
My first year was unsuccesful with the exception of a couple of races, as expected. As boating season is approaching, I am looking for other ways to make my boat faster for next season. I plan to practice much more, but still think I could help things a lot by upgrading my sails, even if I ugraded to used sails.
Roller furling: some people have indicated that I should get rid of the roller furling as it is slow, and you need speed to point. The tuning guide recommends a 170 for light air to get the required horsepower necessary for pointing the boat upwind. <A href="http://www.cc27association.com/pdf/mkv/MkV-Tuning.pdf">http://www.cc27association.com/pdf/mkv/MkV-Tuning.pdf</A>
If I do get rid of the furler, should I get a 170 and take a penalty or a 153 genoa?
I do like having the convenience of a roller furling for the cruising, but want the performance of a full size sail. I am wondering if I could use a full size sail and keep the furling drum, the boat does have shackes at the base of the foestay. If I left the furling drum, the sail would distort around my furling drum and be required to be shorter due to the furler hoist/swivel. Has anyone tried this? Does the sail to distorted to obtain an efficient shape? Is it worth it? I do not have the removable drum like the new harken furlers.
My main is original but in fairly good condition as the boat has seen little use. The original owner logged under 200 hours on the boats engine before I purchased it in 2003. As opposed to buying a new main, I am thinking of having full battens sewn in to help its shape and save $$$. Has anyone recut their mains or has a main with full battens that can comment on this?.
Other items I am thinking of upgrading include: 1.) a 4:1 cunningham in the spring so I can flatten and depower the main in heavier air. 2.) a spinnaker halyard to the masthead, as i only have 2 genoa halyards at this time and the get caught up on furler with spinnaker up. 3) a new mast head light which is brighter, the original does not illuminate the windex sufficiently at night. 4) a wind speed and direction indicator.
Your coments are appreciated.
Regards
Cameron
UNDERDOG MKV Sail#575
The sailmakers all say go with a 163 or 175%. I have several friends with MKVs who would agree.
Jim Wente
Distant Thunder
MKV Hull #69
I would like a 175, but is it allowed, for some reason I thought 170 was max. Maybe I thought this because Redsky the other MKV I sail with has a 170 and I believe she takes 3 second penalty for it. By changing I will loose a 6 second credit for my roller furler and get a 3 second penalty for a 170 (maybe more for a 175).
I am a little concerned with my rig size I measured the main and it was the right size. If the main is the right size shouldn't the jib be too. My Jib off of the S2 7.9 has a luff of only 31 feet. What is the luff of a regular MKV? Anyone think I can get away with putting sail over roller furler drum without to much performance loss.
If I were to look for a used one what would the dimensions be? I guess I'll check with the sail makers for advise, but other owners advise is also helpful.
Thankyou for all of your assistance.
Regards
Cameron
UNDERDOG MKV Sail#575
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