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I have a 1979 Mk III, with the Atomic 4 inboard. The fuel tank is an aluminum tank located under the starboard cockpit locker. I just boat recently and I suspect the the old owner who did not sail it much in the past year, left me with a tank of dirty watery gas. All the engine problems I have had in the past week have led me to beleive that bad gas is the problem. Currently I have approx 1/2 a tank left. Any suggestions on how to completly drain out the tank, and clean it out somewhat? Is their a sump drain located on these tanks? Or is there a way to suck out the fuel? Thanks in advance for any tips:-)
I have a 1978 Mk 111 with the same type of tank. A year ago my "sender" unit for the level gauge wore out and had to be replaced so I know you can remove the sender through the hole in the top of the tank by removing the 6 self-tapping screws. This would give you access for siphoning out the remaining fuel through this hole ( about 1 1/2 " diam). Be very careful of spillage. All power off and no spark sources!!
Clare Jordan- Aragorn
<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
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I very recently encountered similiar bad gas problems on my Mk.2. First, I siphoned out most of the gas using a siphoning device available at auto stores. I then removed the entire tank from the boat and emptied/flushed 4 or 5 times. The amount of crud was quite unbelievable. Fortunately I was able to dispose of the old gas and flushing agent through our local waste disposal agency. When siphoning you must have the container below the tank bottom level which in my case required a small 2 gal. container(s). Removing the tank was easy and only required that I removed the hinged locker cover to allow space. That may or may not be necessary on the Mk.3. My engine no longer experiences the problem associated to bad gas. Hope this helps.
Bob Honsberger Burlington On.
One further afterthought re fuel(gasoline) safety. About 5 years ago I encountered water in the fuel tank and when I removed the metal sediment bowl under the fuel pump to dump the accumulated water, I was shocked to find that the bottom of this bowl was badly corroded from the inside (likely from water lying there for long periods of time). If I hadn't found this and replaced it, I can imagine the pressure of the screw holding the bowl in place could have eventually caused the bottom of the bowl to fail and leak. Not a pleasant prospect!
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
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I have a C&C 27 Mark III (1975),and recently had problems where the engine would not start. Also, fuel gauge was stuck on quarter tank. Last winter I had work done on the bottom that involved sandblasting and epoxy. And for years I had added lead substitute, which I now hear is useless. I figured there was dirt in the tank that propagated to the carburetor. Alcohol in the gas didnt fix the problem. I replaced needle above float, and its seat, and cleaned jets in carb. Still problem. The 1975 model has a cylindrical 14 inch diameter 20 gallon US gas tank, but the cockpit locker opening is less than 14 in inch, so could not remove tank. Solution: open the porthole in the top of the fuel tank and take out the Fuel level Sender (totally crystalized), Pump out the 9 gallons of gas with oil change pump into portable containers, then use stick with hole in end to hold J-cloth to clean inside of tank. Replace sender with new one for $38 from marine store. However, the calibration of the new sender was off - probably because sender was designed for rectangular cross section not cylinder. Decant gas from portable tank to portable tank through funnel with filter, leaving dirt and water in bottom of portable tank or in filter. Pour back in tank when clean. In this way, there was about 10 oz of dirty gas, which I put in a glass bottle to let the dirt settle and brought home for future use in cleaning parts. Take note when filling tank of where fuel guage is for each gallon. Clean carb again.
I cleaned out the fuel tank on my 1975 MK lll and all the words of caution that you can think of are applicable. The tank on mine is MONEL steel and not aluminum, I think that you will find the same on yours.... this metal does not corrode or rust. Saying that gas will break down and form sludge etc. all over the tank. The other contributing factor to bad gas is condensation, thus water forming in the unoccupied portion of the tank.
Once you have removed the old fuel, a syphon works best, to tanks outside the boat. Get a couple of gallons of alcohol, some coffee filters, and a clean bucket. dump the alcohol in the tank and swirl it around with a wooden dowel.... syphon out the alcohol passing it through the coffee filter. return the alochol to the tnak and repeat the process until you are satisfied the tank is clean..... remove the alcohol and let set a day or so wide open.....
From there use dry gas and fuel stabilizer and you should not have any mnore problems.
"IRIS"
1975 C&C 27 MK lll
Hull No. 454
Kittery Point, Maine
Keep your tank full as much as possible. Run the Carb dry when leaving the engine off for a while. Use Marvel Mystery Oil - mentioned in many articles for the A4 - great stuff.
An in-line fuel filter is recommended.
Richard
Mitsu, 27 Mk III '76 #650
Lots of great suggestions for cleaning out the tank. Now how to keep the problem from re-occuring? The sludge just comes with the gas, not much you can do. The water on the other hand probably came in from the fuel filler. Ever noticed that the cap on the deck is often sitting underwater after a good rain? On my MKIII this cap is at the lowest point on the deck, and water always pools around/over it. Take the cap off, and replace the O-ring seal, this will help alot. What O-ring you say? The one that disintegrated several years ago, and is now clogging up your jets on the carb.
One more thought on fuel and fuel tanks: It seems that our boats are reaching an age that is begining to correspond to the life span of more than a few of the components. Inaccurate or non-working fuel gauges are usually the fault of a worn-out/crudded-up sender unit. Replacement units are available ( I have changed mine) but a couple of cautions, if this problem befalls you; 1. There are two (or more ) calibration systems and it is critical that the replacement sender you buy has the same calibration (milliamp range) as the fuel gauge. 2. Also, the sender units are made to cover different ranges of tank height (buy the right one) and it is also critical that the float rod of the kit be accurately cut to the proper length if the gauge is to be accurate.
Clare Jordan
An added thought on fuel system: While tracking down an intermittant shutdown on my A-4 (see Moyer's web site) I discovered the following:
On my mk3 the fuel is hard piped (1/4" copper) thru a shut off valve direct to the ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP-----then to the RACOR----on to the Carb. Not good. Am in the process of using 5/16" type A-1 hose---Tank---shut off----primer bulb---sight glass filter----Racor----elect fuel pump----carb. This way there is the opportunity to pressurize 90% of the system to look for those previously unnoticed air leaks that don't leak gas. Plus the obvious advantage of the Racor protecting
the fuel pump.Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
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