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We are refinishing the exterior teak on our C&C 27 and many of the sailors here in Kenora are recommending Cetol as a low maintenance finish for the wood. Does anyone have experience with this productÉ
The teak previously was varathaned, but weève sanded that down to bare wood so could put anything on at this point. Ièd be interested in what others are using.
I have used Cetol now for eleven seasons.... It has some good qualities and some not so good....
On the good side, easy to apply, a light scuffing and a thin coat or two per season, easy to sand down to avoid build up, easy to spot finish, much easier than varnish to maintain. great on boats that get raced and beat up.
On the down side, can look muddy with build up, not good in high wear areas, thick areas tend to flake.
Still using it, but I would rather see a good varnish job.
"IRIS"
1975 C&C 27 MKlll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
For the past 6 or 7 years I've been using a product called "Armada" . It was recommended back then by "Practical Sailor Magazine". It is a medium dark tone, cleans up with paint thinner or varsol and provides a medium hard finish of slight gloss. It's best quality , in my view, is that a scratch or scrape is easily repairable because the added material blends seamlessly into the original coat to mask the "scar" without having to scrape/sand and re-do a whole area to make a match. I stripped/sanded everything back to the bare teak for the first application.
If I remember correctly, I had to get "The Chandlery" in Ottawa to order in my last 1 qt. can 3 - 4 years ago and I still have 1/2 of it left for future touch-ups.
Clare Jordan
<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
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Be really careful when applying Cetol that you don't get it on the gelcoat. It penetrates and bonds, so it's impossible to remove once dry.
I use Epifanes varnish. It looks good and it's quite resistant to damage from gear.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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I heartily echo David's endorsement of Epifanes.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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If you want to do the high-tech varnish route, coat the stripped teak with West epoxy, then varnish (for UV protection of the varnish). I've not tried it on Towser, but it's supposed to be iron-clad. The caveat is that the wood must be well bedded so moisture can't enter from un-epoxied areas.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
PS - Actually, I have tried varnish-over-epoxy, but only on a dinghy that's kept in a boathouse, so I don't have any sense of the way it stands up to continued exposure. The finish quality is excellent.
Last edited by (2006-04-12 23:30:16)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Re West Epoxy-- I built a new tiller for Aragorn 2 winters ago and after steaming and bending the Ash, Cherry and Oak component layers to shape, I epoxied them together. Instead of varnishing the new tiller, which would have required sanding and re-varnishing it, likely every couple of years, I coated the wood with three coats of West Epoxy. So far, it's standing up beautifully and I bet Dave's suggestion of Epoxy over clean , dry teak would work just as well as it has on my tiller. I know that varnish is suggested over epoxy as U.V. protection but I hesitate to add back the factor of maintaining the varnish--( I'd rather be sailing).
Clare Jordan
<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
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One of the problems with getting any coating to stick to teak, for any length of time that is, is that teak is a very oily wood. The best results I've had, if your bent on putting a coating on it, is to sand the wood clean, then wipe it with acetone and immediately put the coating of choice on. Epoxy will give you a good hard coating that will hold to the wood, but I would not recomend using west , east or any other std. epoxy, it's too thick. You need something that will absorb into the surface. Get some penetrationg epoxy, it's thin, stinks like hell, use a resperator, and coat the wood. Then apply your varnish, 3 coats at least or whatever coating you want. You'll have to be prepared to recoat your varnish at least once a season.
Steve
Still Knot Working MkV
Steve and others,
"West Epoxy" isn't just one type of epoxy nor one type of matching hardener. I'm away in AZ on vacation right now so I can't retrieve the details from home but there are epoxy types that West makes (with appropriate harderers) for application as coatings for wood. I didn't mention it , but I made a 'pseudo' Teak and Holly sole for my cabin floor and coated it with the same type of "West" epoxy that I used on my tiller. If you go to "Black Arts" and look at the photos there of "Aragorn's" re-arranged interior layout, you can see the epoxy-coated floor.
Clare Jordan
P.S. I agree with the acetone cleaning step before coating teak-- I remember doing that before I initially used the 'Armada" on my exterior teak.
I used Cetol on my Catalina 25 and always had good luck with durability and finish. The finish of Cetol will never get close to a fair varnish job. Also a bad Cetol job can get pretty ugly. With Cetol less is more.
Also I have built a number of small dingys and floating dingy docks using the WEST system. The product is easy to use and much friendlier than the commercial resins I have used on the job. I have not used it on teak. WEST poorly applied will flake off in places like old varnish. Saturation is the key and it will provide a nice looking finish in itself.
On Wind Horse I'm using tung oil without any other finish. I expect this may backfire due to the high pollution around Houston. The poor state of the teak when I purchased the boat really gave me no other choice.
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
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