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I'm thinking of buying a 1974 Mark II, one of the things I don't like is the location of the traveler. Can it be moved to the bridge deck like the Mark III's and newer?
john
[Moving and replacement of travellers is now covered in Black Arts. - Admin]
Last edited by (2005-08-02 03:07:31)
YES ! I did this on my MK 2 last year. Look at "black arts" under deck repair 2 for a photo of the cockpit including the bridgedeck.
It works well and is so much more convenient. Additionally, I was able to cut off approx. 15" of the boom, which on it's own looks so much better compared to the original.
Bob Honsberger
Burlington Ontario
" BUDGE " Mk 2
Bob,
I am moving my main to the coach roof - just can't stand the cockpit clutter. I figure I could cut about 12" off my boom - how long is the foot of your main? I am beginning to think the prior owner went overboard - mine is fulll batten, and obviously large roach and I almost always sail with a reef to ease the weather helm.
Anyway - the coachroof seems to me to be the better option - and I am using a "twin main" setup to avoid a traveler.
Warren Smith (AKA Tropical Warren)
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
Warren: The foot of my main is 9.5'. Might suggest that you will have much more clutter by going to a cabin top mainsheet since you will have to go to a much higher ratio compared to the normal 4 to 1 used on end boom or bridgedeck sheeting. Additionally might suggest that the fewer holes in the cabin top the better. Easier to properly mount on the bridgedeck and the mounting fasteners will be less intrusive. FYI , the core in the bridgedeck is plywood, not balsa. Overdrill and fill with epoxy and then drill to size. In my application, in order to minimize the number of holes <img src="emoticons/icon_evil.gif">, I utilized the teak beam as used in end boom sheeting arrangement. Just my thoughts.
Bob Honsberger Burlington Ontario " Budge" MK 2 # 322
I've been giving this some thought for a long time now and here are some points for consideration, maybe good maybe bad. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src="emoticons/icon_surprised.gif">ffice<img src="emoticons/icon_surprised.gif">ffice" /><o:p></o:p></SPAN>
Move the traveler, teak mounting rail and all to the front of the cockpit.
Pros: it gets the traveler out of the aft of the cockpit; simple conversion, drill four holes, plug four holes, trim the existing traveler bridge; install snap shackle between the lower block and car to get the sheet out of the way when in port.
Cons: traveler in the middle of the companionway while underway; limits access to the lazerette while underway; limits bimini / dodger flexibility<o:p></o:p></SPAN>
Add traveler to the bridge deck.
Pros: easy sheeting; longer traveler for better racing control; relatively easy installation
Cons: blocks the companionway; limits bimini / dodger flexibility; unlike the recessed track on MKIII and later boats the traveler will be exposed at least an inch above the height of the bridge deck (and I'll kick that daily, barefoot!). A possible clutter solution would be to add a shackle as above; also put in a teak bridge deck seat to recess the track.<o:p></o:p></SPAN>
Move the traveler to the cabin top.
Pros: gets it out of the cockpit entirely; allows a better bimini dodger solution.
Cons: hardest installation to do correctly; most expensive installation; as pointed out in an earlier post some booms my not be robust enough to take mid boom sheeting; may not be as race friendly as the bridge deck method.<o:p></o:p></SPAN>
Twin Sheet with no traveler. A popular solution on the cruising boats headed south and east out of Galveston.
Pros: simple installation, two pad eyes on the cabin top; very adjustable since one sheet can always be moved to the rail or rigged as a preventer; better bimini / dodger flexibility; inexpensive
Cons: you still have to take care to do the installation correctly; slower sheet control, may not be for racers; twice the line to tail. <o:p></o:p></SPAN>
Tuna Tower Traveler (or hard dodger). I saw a couple of 38' boats with a rig like this headed south a few years ago. The basic idea is making the bimini / dodger out of heavier tubing like used in a tuna tower and mount the traveler (and in their case an antenna farm) above the bimini like some new Hunters.
Pros: everything is out of the way; a bimini strong enough to hang onto in a seaway.
Cons: expensive; not an owner install; too much weight high above the waterline; you may not want to look like you are imitating the new H...<o:p></o:p></SPAN>I'm still making my decision. So any other points, ideas or rebuttals are welcome. But right now it is 8:30am and sunny for the first time in two weeks... I'm going sailing!</SPAN>
Mike M
SV Pura Vida
#375
Galveston Bay
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
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Bob,
Thanks for the information and sage advice. My full-batten main foot is 10'5 and I dimension is 35 - I have the "tall rig" for a Mark I. I suspected the prior owner (a racer) oversized the main. I take a reef at about 10 knts of wind to balance the boat and reduce the weatherhelm.
I very well understand the issue of holes - however we have a different priority here: it's called SUN, heat, UV! My top priority is a full cockpit bimini - stern rail to over the companionway. Like SPF 45 sunblock, verry popular here.
I have accomplished the padeye installation (overdrill, epoxy fill as in black arts here) - last weekend it was finished, and today I reinstall the boom with new bail and two mainsheets. I just had to get the mainsheet out of the cockpit - and with the required long tiller for the horridly unbalanced Mk I rudder (hopefully to be replaced this coming winter) I have to be at the very front of the cockpit anyway.
By the way, I have the traveler car etc. (Harkin) except for the track to put on a windward sheeting traveler. My wife and I spent several months looking at mainsheet systems and talking to owners, and sailing a few. After considering our usage (no racing, just recreational sailing) , and visibility (over the coachroof), we decided to nix the traveler go with the two mainsheet cruising arrangement. It also eliminates need for a separate boomvang and serves as a very managable preventer going downwind.
Now the whole cockpit will be "guest-friendly".
Warren Smith (AKA Tropical Warren)
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
Re: Traveller to the bridge-deck. A "toe-stubber???"
A couple of years ago a friend "went the whole nine yards" and bought himself a beautiful new Harken traveller with windward car sheeting for his Abbott 33. He offered me his old track and car which was superior to what I had on my Mark 111.
However, when we tried to remove my old track from my bridge-deck so we could install the new one, we found the nuts were almost totally inaccessible and the track virtually impossible to remove.(It had to have been installed in the deck before the deck and hull were mated.)
Even though the new track was 1 inch high, we ended up mounting it on top of the original track with screws fastened into holes that we drilled and tapped in the old track. I thought, "Here's a definite "toe-stubber", but that turned out not to be the case. We easily and quickly learned to step over the added height. I had even contemplated installing a 1" thick teak board on top of the bridge-deck to fill the space between the track and the companionway opening but that turned out not to be necessary.
I enveyed my friend's windward car sheeting sytem but lacked the $$$ to match it so I devised a "poor man"s" windward sheeting sytem -- It's not elegant but it's cheap and it works. If someone wants the idea, it's not patented and I'll share-- e-mail me-- bosco@ripnet .com for a sketch and/or photo.
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
Send me your email and I'll send you photos and details of my conversion of the MKII bridge for a traveller.
Bruce Peever, Scalliwag
As this seems to be an area of interest, I'd appreciate copies of your photos plus descriptions of any aspect that is not obvious from the picture. I'll make a traveller page in Black Arts. As ever, I prefer photos direct from the camera, not resized, sharpened or colour-manipulated. Please use [email]davwillca@yahoo.ca">this address</a>.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Mike,
Some feedback on first use of the two mainsheets on the coach roof. I will debate your conclusions on a couple of things:
LESS line to manage - I used my old mainsheet to make both new mainsheets - 32 feet each is generous allowance. I drop the tail to the side deck when underway - really opens up the cockpit - a lot less clutter. No mainsheet sending hats swimming, less line to step on, and the whole rear cockpit is uncluttered.
Sheet control is actually faster - not slower, the lever arm is shorter. I am using my original 4:1 mainsheet assembly and a 4:1 boomvang, my wife can sheet it with no problem. I anticipate I will move to new blocks later to lessen the friction and maybe go to 5:1. But then, I find luffing up momentarily to sheet the main makes a lot of sense.
I agree it is probably not for racers.
Additionally: No separate vang needed, no separate preventer needed, and visibility across the coach roof is much better than with a traveler. Best of all - a FULL COCKPIT BIMINI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Warren Smith (AKA Tropical Warren)
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
I too have a 1980 Mk3 C&C 27 and I want to replace the mainsail traveller which is mounted in a recess across the bridge deck.
1) Has anyone successfully removed the original track? If so, any tips?
2) Did you find a replacement system which does not leave any nasty projections where you want to sit?
[b][Look at "Removal of the Main Sheet Traveller track" (about a year back) for a discussion of this. Some people have had difficulties with this project, but for others it's been straightforward. Replacement track is drilled on standardized holes. Fear not. - Admin]
Last edited by (2005-07-31 11:44:01)
Hi Guest," Re removing the traveler from the bridgedeck of your Mk 111--- See my message, 4 back in this thread--
"However, when we tried to remove my old track from my bridge-deck so we could install the new one, we found the nuts were almost totally inaccessible and the track virtually impossible to remove.(It had to have been installed in the deck before the deck and hull were mated.)"
Good luck!
Clare Jordan
<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
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