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they all leak sooner or later. It is possible to scrape out the caulk, and if you insert enough new caulk into the gap, it may stop leaking...for a while. At least, I stopped leaks on 3 out of 4 corners this way. The fourth corner just keeps leaking.
For a permanent fix your options are 1) remove the window and reseal - see black arts or 2) remove the window and reattach with cement + screws - see balck arts.
Be careful removing the window - on a MKV they are seated on a thick layer of gelcoat, and if you simply pry the window up it will damage the gelcoat. Try slipping a knife or blade between the window & the gelcoat -and running it down the window to break the seal. some say a cold day makes it easier. (I wouldn't know - I haven't tried it myself!)
re: weight on the boat for racing - we're try to be careful to keep it light - but it is a 'racer cruiser' - so we don't get too hung up on it.
in the car trunk: cruising sails, my wife's picnic basket with enough cutlery 8 people
holding tank, water tank empty. fuel tank 1/2 empty
moveable gear on the boat - try to keep in the middle and low. Anchor & rode in the cabin, not the anchor well. Sails on the cabin floor, or the starboard storage area. Keep stuff out of the quarterberth and out of the forepeak.
The weight that matters most? four or five guys on the rail in anything over 10 knots.
Jim
Distant Thunder
MKV Hull 69
my mistake - mine is a Harken as well.
I picked up the end caps at Genco.
Jim
Distant Thunder
Hi
I have seen several arrangements for the traveller. Some have different cleats, some have an extra purchase (which is nice in heavy air, but then there is more line to pull)
Mine is the original Holt traveller - I have replaced the bearings - not because I wanted to, but because I failed to cleat it on a heavy air gybe, and it blew the end cap off, and the car came off. Bearings flew like shot gun pellets!
So: if it is sticky or jamming, you can remove one end cap, and remove the car. You need a special little plastic gizmo that is like an extension of the track - you slide the car onto the gizmo, and that prevents the bearings from flying off and bouncing down the scuppers. The gizmo is available from any marine store - mine is from Genco. Inspect the bearings for wear, and replace if necessary. Or, if it looks like there rough spots in the raceway that is chewing up bearings , buy a new car. Mine was fine with just new bearings. While you are messing around, inspect the end caps on the track. If they are original they are probably hard and brittle. Replace them with new ones - just in case you forget to cleat it on a gybe!
My traveller line leads to cam cleats on the side of the cockpit - you need to be able to cleat & uncleat them with one hand while steering with the other, while sitting on the rail. - if your arrangement will not allow you to do that easily you may want to change it.
The nicest arrangement for the line is to have if spliced on to the shackles on the car - really nice is to make it continous.
I own hull number 69 - there is no plastic insert, and the sail goes up on slides (not slugs).
I wonder if it is the same mast section, just with no insert? Anyone know?
Distant Thunder
Hull #69
On Distant Thunder we have a new main, with only one reef point. So we lead the reef line, main halyard and spinniker halyard to the starboard line clutches, and two genny halyards to the port side line clutches, along with the outhaul. The vang cleats on its own tackle, and we keep the cunningham led on its own tackle on the mast.
The spinnaker pole uphaul and down haul are led to a pair of cleats on the starboard side of the cabin.
We toss all the loose ends down the companionway while racing - we've never had problems with that arrangement, and nothing gets snarled.
I replaced all of the halyards with spectra line when I bought the boat, since the original dacron halyards stretched like crazy. I still have the original line clutches, which work fine. I give them a shot of teflon spray twice a year to keep them from binding.
My backstay adjustment cleats on its own tackle on one corner of the stern - some boats lead it double ended to each side of the cockpit next to the traveller - a nice arrangement, but I have never got around to it.
Make sure you like your traveller arrangement, and that it is easy to play while going to winward in a breeze.
Jim
Distant Thunder
Hull #69
The other thing the baby stay does is to reduce "pumping" of the mast fore & aft when going upwind in a chop. We tighten our baby stay up in wavy conditions - but we don't overdo it. First, the angle of the baby stay up the mast is so sharp on a MK V that you can't really do much with it. Second, the chainplate leads to the forward bulkhead - and if you look at the bottom of the forward bulkhaed on a MKV you will see it is anchorded to...nothing! So we use medium tension, and rely on the backstay to bend the mast - which it does just fine.
Hi
I don't know of shroud tuning tensions for the boat, but check out the tuning guide found under the MKV link on this homepage.
I rig my cunningham with a 4 part purchase & v cleat at the mast.
Deck repair - search the web, try black arts on this web site, buy a book. The sooner you fix it the better.
My boat came with main, #1,2,Jib & spinnaker - all 1985. The dacron main & gennys are fine for cruising, but way too old for racing. My 1985 spinnaker was little used and still is fine for racing.
New Quantum sails: Dacron Main $2800; Kevlar #1 $2800, #2 $2700. The boat is so fast in over 18 knots I'll never buy a #3, the old one is just fine.
Enjoy the boat, race fast.
Jim
so, guest, where are you with that new (used) MKV ?
Hi Robert
I own and race a MKV in Toronto.
It is certainly a different design than the MK1 - MK1V - the MKV is a foot shorter, has a bit less sail, and definitly less cabin room.
The boat sails well in all winds, but is particularly fast in 12 - 20 knots. The helm is well balanced, and the boat is stiff going upwind (and likes a chop better than the earlier designs). There is enough room to cruise with two adults - but not four. If you race it you sould do well, as it sails to it's PHRF rating without a problem.
Have a survey done before you buy - look for wet deck core around the mast & baby stay. Also look for leaky windows and look for blisters on the hull & rudder
I love my boat and reccomennd the model.
If you want more info you should be able to email me from this web site.
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