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Race-cruise. Rigged for single-handing; excellent racing record over 10 years in LOSH.
Lewmar #40 ST primaries, folding prop, hard vang, North Mylar #1 and Kevlar #1 class racing sails, spinnaker and related gear.
Autohelm, dodger, upgraded upholstery, cockpit cushions, BBQ, AM/FM/CD, custom v-berth storage.
Bruce and Fortress ground tackle including rodes, VC17, Yanmar 2GM diesel.
Top condition, one owner for 13 years. Lying QCYC, Toronto. Asking $22k
Contact Wayne Lilley - waynelilley@rogers.com or 416.203.99975
Try this: detach the blade of a hacksaw from the frame and pass it through the appropriate hole in the toerail (i.e. at hole closest to point of maximum water collection when no one is on the boat); reattach the blade to the hacksaw frame so you can now cut the flat part of the toerail. Cut carefully to one side of the hole (fore or aft of the centre point) Avoid damaging the fibreglass. It can be done with some care, or a little tape on the deck will help. Once through the toerail base, move the saw blade to the opposite end of the toerail-hole and repeat. The object is to cut a quarter-inch or so piece out of the base of the toerail to create a channel for water to exit. When complete, remove the piece from the base and repaint the area to match the toerail, including the spot on the deck that is now the channel overboard. It works. Have had no problems and water drains away nicely. (Also works on C&C 30 Mk 1)
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