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Thanks David,
Because my boat is a MK III and the sail was cut for a MK IV when I fly it on the deck, I'd need to move my fairleads about 14-16" forward of the front of my track to get any kind of decent sail shape. I assume this is because the MK IV has a 7" shorter J than the MK III, owing to the move of the headstay back on the foredeck. In order to avoid drilling more holes, and mounting more track, I opted to add the pendant to the bottom, getting the sail up off the deck and pushing the optimum sheeting angle back into the range of track I already had. Although this resulted in a great "looking" shape, my pointing sucks. The boat as rigged and tensioned points beautifully with my old tired Hood laminate No.1 - but it is about to explode.
I purchased a used MK IV 150% genoa for use on my MK III. It is a lovely looking sail and when I add about a 4" tether to the clew (to make up for the fact that it's luff is a bit short, this gets it up off the deck a bit) I can get the fairleads in a good position to produce what looks like a terrific shape. The downside is, even though it looks great, I can't point better than about 60-70 degrees to the apparent wind. I have a great looking sail that gets me killed in every race! Any suggestions?
Thought I should let the group know the sad news that Clare Jordan, a long time contributor to the forum and C&C 27 Association passed away recently. Clare owned a MK 3, name Aragorn for more than 30 years that he raced very competitively every one of those years (including the summer of 2016). He contributed to the forum under the name Bosco and helped many of us over the years to enjoy our boats more, and make them go faster.
Mad Carew Sail # 34191 is available in Kingston
Good solid 1976 example of a MKIII
Insurance survey completed in 2014
Some of deck re-cored - some not
Recently equiped with custom opening ports in main cabin
Engine excellent
Lots of sails - none new
New VHF and Stereo
Harken Self Tailing Winches and Ultra Furl furling/reefing genoa
Wheel steering with MKIV Raymarine autopilot
realistic about price
Madcarew "at" cogeco.ca
I replaced all my wire to rope with straight rope about 3 seasons ago. I got 90' lengths of 8mm dyneema line for each halyard (main, 2 genoa, 2 spinnaker) for a Mk III with all lead back to the cockpit on the cabin top. This left 3-5' of tail on each after the rope clutch. The 8mm dyneema has argueably less stretch than wire/rope, it is lots lighter and is still big enough to work well in the clutches. I inspected the mast head sheeves and found that they had smooth surfaces (without a perceptable extra wire groove in the middle)so I left them as is. I haven't had any wear/tear problems at all by doing so. I pulled a messenger line in with the old halyard, then sewed the new halyard to the messenger and pulled the new halyard back in. It took me about 45mins. to change all 5 halyards.
Chris Phippen
C&C 27 MK III, Mad Carew
Hi Mike,
I bought my windows (custom built for me) from Bomon Industries, near Montreal Quebec
Web site bomon.com
In the end they turned out to be rather expensive (about $600 per side). But when I added up the $300-$400 per window cost for off the shelf solutions, and the likelyhood I would need two per side, plus a lot of fibreglass work to fit them I figured it was worth while.
Unfortunately I don't have any installed photographs at this time and the boat is on the hard and covered with tarps at the moment. Maybe I'll get some first thing in the spring and see if I can get them posted.
Chris
I had always wanted opening windows on my MKIII, so last fall when I read the article in Sail magazine about custom windows I jumped at the chance.
I had Bomon from near Montreal make me up two custom fit windows to replace the larger aft windows with ones that open! In the end I cut the holes about 1/2" deeper, and rounded the corners a bit, but the new windows fit very nicely, don't leak, and best of all open to allow ventilation
Looks like they are doing quite a nice job! I have been trying to tackle this project myself, a little each year. When I see an entire side done at once I start to think that is the way I should have done it. Are the long thin dark strips solid wood core to support the genoa tracks? If you wouldn't mind sharing approximate costing, I would love to get an idea of just how much I'm not saving by trying to do this myself? You could email me directly if you don't want to publish #'s on the forum - [address deleted]
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Thanks for the good input fellas. Isn't sanding off VC Tar a wonderful job? I found that the Soy based stripper actually removed 90% and therefore was very helpful. I like the alternating colour idea (white wasn't available when I worked on my Shark). And it looks like I'll tip each coat. Here in Kingston, I'm sure I won't find any trouble getting cool enough weather in the spring!
I have searched the archives and see that most people recommend between 3 and 4 gallons of Interprotect for a 27 Mk III. I have also seen the recommendation of a "roll and tip" application. I am familiar with this technique from other marine paint products. My question is can you tip with an inexpensive foam brush? Did others who "rolled and tipped" do this singlehanded? When I did the deck on my Shark with an expensive two part epoxy a couple of years ago I found the tipping had to be done with a very expensive natural bristle brush. The foam brush just caused streaking or smudges. The paint skimmed over very quickly and you had to have a 2nd person to tip almost imediately after rolling on the paint. Additinally, did you tip every coat, or just the final one/two?
Sorry I'm late chiming in! When I bought Mad Carew about 6 years ago, the stove was top priority for making coffee for my wife!! (nothing else other than the head really mattered to her). I telephoned Kenyon (in New Jersey I think) to order rebuild parts. I got about halfway through the list of parts and the very helpful lady I was speaking to (the Kenyon expert on my 30 yr. old stove) spoke up and said the cost of the parts I was ordering had already exceeded the cost of a complete factory overhaul that includes all necessary parts. I packed up the whole stove and shipped it to them, and in about 4 weeks I got it back looking and working just like brand new. All for much less than the cost of the various parts I needed to do it myself. The lady I had spoken with even followed up with a phone call to let me know she had personally bench tested my stove (made herself a pot of coffee) before allowing it to be shipped back to me. I have rarely been more impressed with customer service.
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