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Thanks Clare, that's what I'm planning on. The boatyard asked for a diagram and i know I have one just eleven hundred miles down the street. I'll be there to oversee so it won't be a problem. After all, what could possibly go wrong?
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Hello all,
It's been a while since I checked in here at the forum. I've been living aboard here in south Florida since last October and now need to have the old girl hauled and stored for a few months. Back home in PA I have a copy of the owners manual which I acquired through the Association many years ago with a page that shows the sling location for hauling, but I don't have that info with me. The marina that will be pulling me out wants to know the sling locations. I've searched the site but can't seem to find that page. Can someone make that page available to me for download or point me in the right direction within the Associations site here? Thanks in advance!
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
I will definitely perform the ceremonial wine cork tracing as soon as I get the chance, although if memory serves I did that when I bought her in '07. Now that my interest is piqued I will pay particular attention to the hull number to make sure I have it right. Yes, single shrouds.
Thanks again.
Chris
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Thanks very much for responding Alan, you've been quite helpful. I had perused the site several times but somehow missed the section on Hull Identification Numbers, but at least I found the transom! It would appear as though my boat was built at the Niagra-on-the-Lake facility. My hull I.D. is Z07016772, which doesn't quite fit all the criteria mentioned but comes close. I am certain that my hull number is 167 and she was built in 1972. I find it peculiar that on the Evolution page it says that Mark I hulls were numbered 1-215, yet in the table below on the same page it says that hulls 168 - 451 were Mark II. At any rate she is a wonderful vessel and has yet to disappoint me in any way.
Chris
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Does anyone know if I can find where my 27 was built? Hull# 167, the last MKI I believe. Belleville Marine? Niagra on the Lake plant? A facility in Rhode Island?
Chris
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Lawrence,
I assume you mean that you can't get the rear flange disconnected from the prop shaft. I'm not sure how the MkV is built, but the following explains how I performed this procedure on my MKI. After separating the rear flange (on the shaft) from the front flange (on the transmission)and removing any set screws securing the flange to the shaft, place a socket which is slightly smaller than the shaft diameter against the end of the shaft and using long bolts draw the 2 flanges together again. This will essentially press the shaft out of the flange. You may need to repeat the process with more/longer sockets and longer bolts until the flange falls off the shaft. Hope this helps.
Chris
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Josh,
Last summer I replaced my original (1972) fuse panel with a breaker panel. This evening I will try to find my receipt for the breaker panel so I can tell you where I got it. I recently took the boat to Florida via ICW and am now back home in PA so I can't just go look to see what brand it is. You are welcome to my old fuse panel for the cost of shipping if still interested as the breaker panel works marvelously. You can write me directly: chris at chrisferrier dot com if the forum allows. That would be quicker as I don't check this forum as often as I should.
">Chriswheat Second Wind
">Chesapeake Bay MD
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if memory serves, I removed the hose where the water exits the exhaust manifold to find that there was very little if any water getting through, so I pulled the hose going into the manifold to find plenty of flow. I then took the manifold off, and got the proper plumbing fittings from the hardware store to fit my garden hose to either end I wanted. I soaked the manifold in a 5 gallon bucket of diluted muriatic acid (mostly water) for about ten minutes, then hooked up the hose and flushed out lots of crud. Switched the hose to the other end and did it again. Repeating until all was clean and clear. Got a new manifold gasket from Moyer and put 'er back together. I didn't want to reverse flush with the manifold installed as that would just clog the engine. But make sure the manifold is not passing water before going through all that.
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Right off the bat let me confirm that those guys at Moyer Marine are the best friends an A-4 owner can have. That said, mine overheated 2 years ago because the exhaust manifold (no doubt original from 1972) was clogged with scale that had finally broken loose. I took it off, brought it home, soaked it in diluted muriatic acid for a half hour or so, and flushed it out real good repeatedly in both directions. The result is an engine that runs at the temperature it should. That may not be your problem, but if your exhaust manifold is old you should flush it.
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
I checked and the corner radius is the same for the portlights in the head and the saloon. I can offer a tracing & accurate dimensions if Rick still needs them.
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Rick,
I replaced all 4 port lights in my 1972 MK 1 (hull #167)last year. It looks as though I didn't save any of the larger ones, but I do have one of the smaller ones (original by the looks of it) in my hand. I would be happy to trace it and send you the tracing if you are still in need. I will take this one when I visit her this weekend to check and see if the radius in the corner is the same as the larger ones (I think it is) and if so I can offer those dimensions. This one measures 4 11/16 x 12 5/8, so my boat must be a different model than Jeff's.
Chris
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Another excellent scource of industrial supplies (o-rings included) is McMaster Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/# I've gotten many supplies from them for my boat, such as new ss prop shaft. Worth a look.
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
A friend sent me an e-mail saying that there is a classified in "Good Old Boat" magazine for free opening portlights for a C&C 27. I'm not interested but maybe someone else is. Good luck. The ad says to e-mail Tom Lee: landmark at up dot net
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
It's time to install a dodger on my MK1 as I am cruising, not racing. I searched the forum and saw a number of referrals for makers but didn't see any posts after 2008. If any one knows of a used but servicable frame that fits a MK1, and/or a pattern for the canvas work, I would be most appreciative of the lead. Also, if anyone has any photos of a MK1 with a dodger installed I would love to view them. The only shots I could find through the forum search was of MK3's which have the traveller in the front of the cockpit instead of the rear. If I end up making my own I will record the process for submission to the Black Arts page.
Thanks for any guidance, Chris
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Hey Tony, got any Barient tools left? I could use one. chrisferrier at verizon.net
Chris
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
I've gotten an Origo 3000 to replace the pressurized Kenyon and am considering installation options. I don't see any photos in Black Arts and was wondering if anyone has a pic of their Origo 2 burner in an early (MK1 or MK2) 27? Does it gimbal?
Thanks, Chris
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Just replaced the larger windows in my Mk1. Used the foam backing & rubber<img src="emoticons/icon_question.gif"> gasketing fresh from South Shore Yachts. I read the pertinent section in Black Arts and did the job much as described therein, but try as I might I cannot get rid of the puckers on the inside corners. The directions that came with the gasket say I might need to trim 1mm from the outside edge at each corner, which I tried on the first corner but not on any succesive ones (due to the ineffectiveness of that attempt), but that didn't seem to make a difference. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there some magic goo that I can use to stick the gasket to the plexi? My inclination is to snip a vee at the inside corner so the gasket can then lie flat against the plexi, but am hesitant to start chopping my new gasket.
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Which Mark (or year built)?
Chris Ferrier
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
e-mail me at chrisferrier at verizon.net for dimensions of my Rolly Tasker sails made for my MK1. 150 Genny & full batten main. About 5 yrs old. Good for comparison. They work well.
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
I need it as I don't have one. Where are you?
Chris Ferrier
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Marcus,
I'm a little late to this thread, but I replaced what was no doubt the original blower on my MKI (hull# 167) with a Jabsco from Defender a couple of years ago. It looked just like the original, went right in where the old one was, and cost $46; been working fine since. part# 900250.
Chris
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Thanks for the post Bruce. I am missing the lid, part# H-1276 on ess-kayyards site. I can get one from them for $50 but thought I would try to locate one for a little le$$. If not, I may replace it with an Origo non pressurized which sounds like a better choice anyway.
Chris
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Thanks Windy but I don't think it's the same stove. Mine is a Homestrand model 206, gimballed, pressurized alcohol, no electric.
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
The Homestrand 206 alcohol stove that is still on my boat (1972 MK1) is obviously missing some parts in the back, which prevents it from staying level when un-latched. Has anyone replaced theirs with propane and possibly saved the original for parts that they would be willing to part with?
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD
Way to go Andy! Thanks for the insight.
Chriswheat Second Wind
Chesapeake Bay MD