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#1 Re: General discussion » Mark V sliding door separating main cabin from forward cabin and head » 2010-08-06 03:03:21

I have a similar problem.  Haven't done anything about it since it still closes about halfway (enough to give some level of privacy when using the head). 

When we bought the boat (maybe four+ years ago) I think the door worked completely.  I haven't noticed any change for the worse in the past three years which is when I noticed it was an issue.  If you figure out what the problem is, please post about it. 

My worse fear is that there is core rot and the mast is compressing/deflecting the cabin top. But I'd think that the mast step would be soild epoxy/fiberglass or plywood and if that had rotted, the balsa aoround it would have faired worse and been noticable earlier.  Since I don't feel any spongyness around the mast it's not likely rot.  But does anyone know what the core construction is of the Mk V at the mast step, including how large an area is re-inforced?  Maybe it's possible that despite the wood column providing support within the cabin, the area is rotted. 

Although... hadn't thought about the fact that the interior is an insert.  Maybe it's not rot. Whew!  But if you get into it and do something drastic, please post so I know what to do/not to do.

#2 Re: General discussion » Water under floor near the head on Mark V » 2009-06-14 23:32:46

That is the likely cause.  The previous owner overfilled the tank so much that it came out the access port in the top.  Apparently it wasn't closed very tight.  Let me tell you, it's no pleasure having to clean that holding tank, there's very little room between the tank and the liner.  On my wish-list is to install a level gauge so I don't do the same thing.

Most access ports to holding tanks have o-rings to make a proper seal between the port and its screw-in plug. But on my own boat, the o-ring had deteriorated and vanished, permitting a vile seepage into the space under the v-berth when the boat was sailed hard with any quantity in the tank. Replacement of the o-ring made the tank tight again, so the only time it was overfilled, all the evidence emerged at the external vent and only at the vent (which was bad enough, but at least I didn't have to clean the entire forepeak). See the Black Arts article on heads. - Admin

#3 Re: General discussion » Water under floor near the head on Mark V » 2009-06-13 21:50:20

I have/had the ame issue with mine but it came with a nasty stink too.

First the removal:  First I used my hand held transfer pump which had a small diameter suction tube to remove the majority of the water.  After that I uses a wetvac with the suction tube necked down to a small diameter tube.  I plugged the gaps with a rag and used a short piece of tubing to reduce the amount of vacuum lost.

Then the fix:  There are several other posts that I've seem on the forum that address water is this area.  Maybe the are under the heading of foul-smell or somethink that becuase if the water stagnates it gets a little ripe.  Anyway, the general thought on how the water got there is this:  There is a small diamete drain hole in the anchor locker.  The anchor locker is not part of the hull but rather part of the deck or the forward liner.  The two pieces (hull and deck/interior liner) are not bonded together, therefore there is a small gap between the two liners.  The drain hole pentrates both. When water exists the anchor locker (or when the bow gets wet and water is forced into the drain hole) some of it seeps between the two liners and ends up in the forward bilge which does not drain.

To fix the drain hole problem: over drill the hole, tape the outside portion and fill with a thickened epoxy.  Let set.  Re drill hole through the solid epoxy.

I've cleaned out the forward bilge many many times.  It's a pain.  Becasue of the stink I have soaped it up, added head treatment, used a 36-inch long bottle brush to get under the liner and scrub, run a hose for what seemed like hours and hand pumped a small ocean to get it all out.  I have not fixed the anchor locker drain (yet), but last season the forwrd bilge stayed dry.  Maybe it was  dry season. I haven't been to the baot but once this season to put the main back on.  Maybe the bilge will be dry July 4 when I hope to see her again.

Good luck,

#4 Re: General discussion » Transom/Deck joint on a MkV » 2008-10-23 03:21:56

If you're looking for bonding capability I'd go with ITW Plexus methacrylate adhesive (MA310 I believe).  It's the stuff that's recommended for replacing the cabin windows, which I've done and the stuff works great!.

It's used as a marine adhesive for the hull/deck joint so it's probably exacatly what you're lookinng for.  However, I'd check to make sure it can handle the gap you have.  Also be aware the the adhesive is a two-part system with a very short working time.

Now I have to go check my boat to see if the transom joint is opening up...

-Pat

#5 Re: General discussion » Chainplate deck bolts » 2008-04-04 10:30:44

Hi Tim.  I happened to have re-bedded my chain plate last year.  The missing "bolts" are actually screws so they don't penetrate into the cabin's interior. 
Several of my bolts were bent so it too some effort to get them undone.  I recommend that you pick up a few extra to have on hand when you're ready to do the work. 
Good luck
Pat

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