C&C 27 Association Forum

I rebuilt my exhaust manifold using 1.25" schedule 40 steel pipe that you can get at the plumbing store.  The injection elbow is special order, but everything else was easy to assemble, once I got the old one apart, which was the tough part!Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

Planning to relocate my muffler too! Need to make space for batteries somewhere other than beside the carburetor. 

Ken - do you have any photos of your completed installation you can share? Did you mount the new Vetus muffler "athwartship" overtop the stuffing box?

When I replaced the hoses on my cockpit drains, they also were incredibly stiff.  When doing the install, I found it easier to pull out the cockpit drain from the cockpit sole, make the hose connections, and then push the drain fitting back in (while re-bedding it) and tightening the backing nut on it.

This gives much more "wiggle room" when wrestling with the stiff hose.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

Ed - I've got an older 170% hank-on light air genoa if you're interested. Fit a Mark 3, so it should fit your Mark 4 also.
Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

I have an older main sail that was the spare with the Mark 3 I bought.  I also have a lightweight 170% genoa with hanks - you'd have to put a luff tape on it but could be a good sail for light air.

I'm in Burlington, Ontario - let me know if you'd be interested in coming by to have a look.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

Thanks Marcus - I told James he should ask you about this!

I'll try to get a picture of the plate when I start painting it.  It is a fairly big job, but worthwhile if you're certain the core is in good condition.  You need to disconnect the throttle and shift cables, disconnect the steering cables from teh quadrant, and then have someone help you unbolt the pedestal bolts.  The stainless frames also need to be disconnected - I'm replacing the pedestal fee as the old plastic ones were cracked.  Thankfully Edson has a new and improved (and very expensive) replacement part for the pedestal feet. 

Not a small job, but worth while for keeping things dry and intact.

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

A fellow 27 owner at our club did the following with the mast base on his boat, something I'm hoping to copy.  Not sure if I can attach photos, but he basically used aluminum angle bolted to either side of the Mark 1-4 mast base (the simple channel).  This required replacing the two long studs that hold the mast in place.  The angles had holes drilled in them to accept turning block shackles. I've got photos if anyone wants them. 

Looks like a very simple and elegant solution thanks to Marcus Opitz on Carriden!Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

At that price range, its tough to go wrong.  From the photos, it looks to be in decent shape.  The engine looks to have some type of additional pump added to it (maybe freshwater cooling?) and by the looks of the rust on it, may have seen better days.  Check the decks carefully and look for spiderweb cracks or deck delamination by sound the deck for hollow areas or using a moisture meter.  Really, a survey may be worthwhile. 

It looks as though you have enough sails to get out in fair conditions, but you may want to look at their age/condition also.

Good luck! I've got a '76 also, it was a great year!

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636

Definitely a good idea - I gave it a try and still have water in the bowl all the time.  Must be the joker valve - hard to believe its worn out already!  Has anyone ever installed a vented loop at the top of the discharge hose? Or should the joker valve be able to hold back any residual liquids from draining back into the bowl?

Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636